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39 Secrets Your Dog Won't Tell You  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's a great list that I thought I would pass on...very interesting! –Kim

39 Secrets Your Dog Won't Tell You

We asked animal behaviorists, nutritionists, veterinarians and pet groomers to shed some light on what your furry friends would tell you if they could.

By Michelle Crouch
Reader's Digest Magazine
May 2014

1. You think my tail wagging is always an invitation for you to pet me more. Wrong!
Italian researchers found that dogs wag their tails slightly to the right when they see something they like and to the left when they're confronted with something they want to back away from.

2. You might buy any old dog-grooming brush at the pet store...
...but you should really pick the right one for my coat. A rubber brush will promote circulation and loosen dirt. A bristle brush removes dead hair.

3. You're giving me too much food.
How can you tell? I don't seem motivated by food treats when you're trying to train me. Cut back, and I'll start to pay attention.

4. Grooming day means you bring out the big blow-dryer. Don't!
To make dogs like me look fluffy, shake a little cornstarch into the base of the fur and then brush. It will absorb oil and grease and detangle matted fur.

5. Please don't rush me when I'm going to the bathroom.
There's a reason dogs circle around before getting down to business: We have an instinct to be aligned with the earth's magnetic field before we poop. In fact, researchers watched 70 of us engage in 1,893 defecations over a two-year period just to figure this out.

6. You may think it's nice to let me sleep all day, but too much nap time can affect my personality.
A lot of behavioral problems can be solved by just taking your dog on a daily walk or by playing with your cat for 20 minutes every day.

7. Since I'm an old dog, I get to eat whatever I want, yes? No!
If I have arthritis, I'll be much happier if you give me a daily supplement that contains glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate, which protect joint cartilage. And switch me to a food formulated for an animal my age.

8. If you lose me...
...the first thing you should do is call every animal shelter within 100 miles of home, and visit the nearest shelters every day if you can. Many animal control bureaus euthanize animals if they go unclaimed for a specific amount of time. (For good measure, be sure to get me a microchip when I'm young.)

9. If you're getting me spayed...
...ask your vet if she can remove just my ovaries, not my uterus. A much less invasive procedure, it's the way cats and dogs are spayed in Europe, and many U.S. veterinarians have already made the switch.

10. Because I'm a creature of habit, even a subtle change in my behavior is a red flag that I might be sick.
So if it takes me an hour to eat my food instead of 60 seconds as usual, if I'm tiring out faster when we play, if there are more urine clumps in the litter box than usual, or if I seem to be drinking more water, call the vet right away.

11. There's no question that if you keep me inside and don't let me wander the neighborhood...
I'll have a better chance of living a longer life. I won't get hit by a car, stolen, or just plain lost. But once I've been allowed to roam free, it'll be hard to change me.

12. Please introduce me around when I'm young so I'm not afraid of strangers.
Some experts say I should meet 100 new people of different sizes, genders, and ethnicities in my first 100 days at home, even if it's just a quick greeting. Make sure you include people wearing hats and sunglasses, since those accessories can look awfully scary to me.

13. You may think it's cute when I rub my butt on the carpet...
...but it probably means that I'm itchy and would like to see a vet.

14. When you're choosing a new furry friend, ask a vet or trainer for simple tests you can do to gauge temperament.
For example, you can try rolling me over on my back to see how I handle it. If I really struggle, I'm probably going to be tougher to train than an animal who lies there placidly.

15. Forget the Milk-Bones!
If you want me to really pay attention when you're training me, use a treat that's moist, something so gross, you don't even want to hold it in your hand, like a piece of greasy chicken.

16. While some of us gulp down grass only if we've eaten something that doesn't agree with us and we're trying to regurgitate it...
...others of us just love to munch the lawn. So let me graze – just make sure the grass I'm eating is free of pesticides.

17. Beware, Mom, because I will eat your underwear...
...especially if they've been worn. Veterinarians surgically remove hundreds of pairs from dogs' bellies every year.

18. Please, please can I choose my own bed?
The most comfortable one will depend on how I sleep. Let me try out a few in a pet store. If I usually sleep with my legs sprawled out, I'll be more comfortable on a flat bed without side bumpers. But if I like to curl up, I'll probably love a bumper bed.

19. You say I'm great with kids, but...
...if I'm licking, pulling my ears back, turning my head away, or yawning (all signs of anxiety) while they play with me, I'm probably just barely tolerating them. If you keep letting them pull my tail, one of these days, I might lose it.

20. Hold those clippers!
No matter how high the mercury climbs or how long my hair is, I don't need to be shaved. My undercoat actually insulates me from heat, so it helps me stay cool. Just make sure you keep my coat brushed and mat-free to promote good air circulation.

21. If you leave me in the backyard when you're not home...
...don't fool yourself that I'm going to run around and have fun. The truth is, I'm probably going to sit in one spot and wait for you to return. Dogs are den animals, and many of us prefer to be inside, ideally with you.

22. I love to fetch and would like to learn how to catch a flying disc...
...but those hard plastic FRISBEEs can hurt my teeth and gums. Instead, look for a soft one at a pet store.

23. If I'm not used to strangers and you reach out toward me when you first meet me...
...your hand may as well be a meat cleaver. Instead, crouch down on one leg and look slightly away. Then let me approach you and give you a sniff.

24. Let's get one thing straight: Declawing is not the same as cutting our nails.
It's a hideous, painful surgery that's much more like amputating the last two knuckles of your fingers. If my scratching is really bad, try glue-on nail caps.

25. If I'm spraying "outside the box," I'm not being spiteful.
Something is stressing me out. It may be a new person, a new pet, or even a new piece of furniture in the house that seems to be encroaching on my territory.

26. I'm confused. When I jumped up on you earlier...
...you gave me such a nice pet. But now you're mad at me for jumping on Aunt Martha. Am I allowed to jump up or not?

27. If you let me on the furniture now, while I'm young and cute...
...I will always think it's OK, no matter how big I get.

28. What do you mean you can't teach an old dog new tricks?
My owner taught me to fetch the newspaper from the driveway and take it to him when I was ten.

29. Remember when I was little and you shoved my nose in a puddle of pee I left?
I have no idea why you did that. Instead, get me outside as quickly as possible and praise me whenever I pee outdoors.

30. Want me to learn to walk by your side on a leash?
Well, give me some incentive. As soon as I start to pull ahead, stop walking. When I turn and look back, offer me a treat right next to your leg. I'll quickly figure out I need to stay next to you in order to keep doing what I love most: moving and exploring.

31. If you're tired of finding pet hair on your sofa and want to keep me off...
...try a Scat Mat, which gives out a small, harmless electrostatic pulse when it's stepped on. Or buy a car mat and turn it upside down on your couch, so the little rubber prongs are facing up. I hate those.

32. When I bark, jump, and grab the towel off the countertop...
...I'm not trying to be bad. I'm just bored! I want your attention! Please, get off your smartphone and play with me.

33. If I'm a dog who is scared of thunderstorms or loud noises, get me a snug-fitting Thundershirt.
Or you can make your own. Wrap an Ace bandage across my chest, cross it over the top of my body and then back under, going over and under until it's midway down my back, and then secure it. The constant pressure against the middle of my body will help ease my anxiety and calm me down.

34. Remember, my digestive system is very different from yours.
Raisins and grapes can shut down a dog's kidneys. Other dangerous foods include chocolate, coffee, macadamia nuts and avocado.

35. Want my coat to be thick and shiny?
Make sure my diet has plenty of essential fatty acids. Most high-quality commercial pet foods have enough, but pets on low-quality foods or homemade diets that aren't balanced may develop a dull coat.

36. Every bag of pet food has an Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) statement on the label...
...although you might need a magnifying glass to read it. Look for one that says the food has undergone animal feeding trials rather than one that's been “formulated” by a computer. The trials are expensive, but they indicate that real dogs actually ate the food for six months with good results.

37. Check with a board-certified veterinary nutritionist before giving me a homemade-food diet.
Researchers at the University of California, Davis, who examined 200 recipes last year for home-prepared dog food found that 95 percent had some serious nutritional deficiencies.

38. Did you hear the hype about grain-free cat and dog food?
That's what it is: hype. There's nothing wrong with feeding me grains – they can actually be an important part of a balanced diet. Before you make any change, talk to your vet.

39. If you switch me to a raw diet, I may end up with cracked teeth or a bacterial infection.
Also, exposure to my feces could put anyone with a weakened immune system at risk. That's why the ASPCA, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, and other institutions all strongly discourage raw diets.

Sources: Brian Hare, PhD, codirector of the Canine Cognition Center at Duke University; Rebecca Remillard, PhD, DVM, DACVN, a veterinary nutritionist at North Carolina State University and founder of petdiets.com; Jorge Bendersky, a groomer and pet stylist in New York City; Spencer Williams, owner and president of West Paw Design, a company that makes pet toys and beds; Nancy Kay, DVM, author of Speaking for Spot: Be the Advocate Your Dog Needs to Live a Happy, Healthy, Longer Life; Jennifer Coates, DVM, veterinary adviser to petmd.com; Victoria Schade, dog-training and behavioral expert at pet360.com and author of Bonding with Your Dog: A Trainer's Secrets for Building a Better Relationship; Sophia Yin, DVM, a veterinarian and animal behaviorist and the author of How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves; K. C. Theisen, director of pet-care issues at the Humane Society of the United States; Amy Farcas, DVM, DACVN, a veterinary nutritionist at the University of Pennsylvania; Marilyn Krieger, cat behavioral consultant and author of Naughty No More; Karen “Doc” Halligan, DVM, author of Doc Halligan's What Every Pet Owner Should Know; Jackson Galaxy, cat behaviorist and host of Animal Planet's My Cat from Hell; Stephen Zawistowski, PhD, animal behaviorist and adviser at the ASPCA.

Source: Reader's Digest
©2014 The Reader's Digest Association, Inc.


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I am a Forever Dog  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , ,

Here's a great picture/poster that reminds us: their lives are completely in our hands! –Kim

I am a Forever Dog, not an 'Until Dog'

      Source: Raise the Woof

I AM A FOREVER DOG, NOT AN 'UNTIL DOG.'
 
I'm not an "until you get bored with me" dog.
I'm not an "until you find a girlfriend" dog.
I'm not an "until you have a baby" dog.
I'm not an "until you have to move" dog.
I'm not an "until you have no time" dog.
I'm not an "until I get old" dog.
I'm a forever dog.
If you can't give me forever, then I'm not your dog.
IT'S REALLY THAT SIMPLE.


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Common Dog Behavior Myths  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's a great article about common myths...hope you find it informative! –Kim

14 Common Dog Behavior Myths Decoded

By Mikkel Becker
March 5, 2012

Although dog training has become more of a science than a craft in recent years, some persistent myths still mislead us when reading canine behavior. Don't let a myth harm your relationship with your pooch. Here, we dispel 14 common myths and look at the facts.

1. An old dog can't learn new tricks.

False. Old dogs not only learn new tricks but they thrive when trained. My late Pomeranian, Mr. Teddy, who was adopted at an estimated 10 to 13 years of age, was a training superstar in Vetstreet videos, which were filmed two weeks before he passed away. By the same token, older dogs without housetraining experience as puppies can successfully be housetrained. As long as a dog is mentally and physically capable of learning to perform a behavior and is properly motivated, it's entirely possible to train her. While intense agility training for Teddy was not realistic, teaching basic commands was.

2. A dog shouldn't sleep with you or be allowed on furniture, or she'll think she's the boss and will misbehave.

False. Just like humans, dogs simply want a comfortable place to lie down. If comfort can be combined with being next to their beloved human, whether it's right next to you on the couch, or even on top of your lap, then they're all for it. In rare cases, dogs will guard their sleeping and resting areas, and will show aggression when humans approach these sacred areas. This type of behavior will require remedial training. But for the average Rover, sleeping in bed or resting on the couch has no adverse behavioral effects.

3. When your dog has a potty accident, it's important to rub her nose in it to let her know what she did.

False. When you rub a dog's nose in her own mess, she often sees no association between that and her having had a potty accident. Nor does rubbing her nose in her accident teach her not to potty on the floor again. Instead, rubbing her nose in her accident teaches her that humans are dangerous and unpredictable, and she will likely begin to hide in safety by sneaking into another room to go to the bathroom, making housebreaking even more difficult.

4. A dog who cowers from people was likely abused in the past.

False. There are various reasons for dogs cowering, and not all of them are because a dog was abused. Commonly, the dog was not properly socialized or had negative experiences during her prime socialization period as a puppy. Genetics also play a role in the fearful dog. Other reasons for a dog to duck away might be that she has learned to dodge people who try to grab her collar, or she is uncomfortable with petting, such as having her ears handled. Unfortunately, well-meaning strangers often approach dogs by bending over the top of their heads and reaching down to pet, which will send timid dogs into a cowering position. A better way to approach is by getting into a kneeling position, with your body turned toward the side, and then inviting the dog to approach you. If you practice this method, it will be less likely to cause a canine to cower.

5. Shelter dogs have too much baggage. It's better to adopt a puppy to start with a clean slate.

False. Many shelter dogs are well-behaved pooches who, for an endless list of possible reasons, could not be kept by their original owners. Older shelter dogs make ideal candidates for people wanting to skip the puppy stages of chewing, potty training and mouthing. The interview process at most shelters also pairs canine candidates with the family setting that will best suit the dog's temperament, which can create cohesion from the beginning.

6. All dogs should enjoy being around other dogs. It's essential for dogs to go on outings with other dogs, such as at the dog park. If a dog doesn't enjoy other dogs, there is something wrong with her.

False. Not all people are social butterflies and neither are all dogs. Some dogs may prefer solitude and only a small, select group of people. Dogs also have their own preferences when it comes to other canines. Breeding can play a big role in their sociability, with terriers being notorious for contentiousness with other pooches. Other times, whether from lack of socialization as a puppy or simply an individual preference, dogs may not enjoy canine comradery. Even though plenty of dogs enjoy the dog park, not all of them enjoy the idea of dozens of other dogs frolicking around them and would instead prefer a quiet walk with their owners.

7. You should let dogs just fight it out when they get into a scuffle.

False (well, at least partly false). It's true that you should never get into the middle of a dog fight, because some of the most damaging dog bites occur when owners try to separate fighting dogs. There are some tactics you can use to break up the scuffle without actually getting in the middle of the fray. Try using water, a really loud noise, or even a distraction like grabbing a treat bag or using voice to direct them to do something else. Owners should do everything they can to prevent another fight in the future. Often dogs don't settle matters on their own, and fighting intensifies over time, especially with dogs in the same home. This calls for advanced training with the help of an animal behaviorist or a certified professional trainer.

8. My dog is trying to show she's in charge when she doesn't listen to me.

False. It's easy to attribute human motives like "getting even" or "being spiteful" to our dogs, but dogs don't have the same complex emotions as humans. The more realistic reasons why a dog doesn't do what's being asked is either because she doesn't understand what she's being asked to do, or the dog doesn't have the proper motivation to want to perform the behavior. For example, most dogs don't come when called because the payoff isn't worth it. When they do, they usually are put on a leash or taken into the house when they'd rather stay outside.

9. My dog knows she was bad after she goes potty in the house. Her guilty face says it all.

False. Dogs show a perceived "guilty face" not because they feel an actual emotion of guilt, but they are actually showing appeasement behaviors in response to their owners intimidating body language. Whether we want to or not, it's difficult not to display negative body language when we're upset with our pets. A 2009 study by researcher Alexandra Horowitz at Barnard College in New York revealed that the "guilty look" dogs display is solely attributed by humans and has no relation to whether the dog is actually responsible for an offense. The study found that dogs who had not actually eaten the forbidden treat, but were scolded by their misinformed owners for eating a treat, showed guiltier-looking body language than dogs who had actually eaten the forbidden treat. The guilty look is simply a response of the dog to her owner's behavior.

10. It's always the owner's fault when a dog misbehaves.

False. Most owners are well-meaning, but are simply misinformed or lack knowledge on how to train their dogs effectively. Blaming the owner for all of a dog's problems makes for good TV, but there are a myriad of reasons why a dog misbehaves, including lack of proper socialization or preventive training, or even the genetic tendencies of the dog. It's important for pet parents to push past feelings of shame or guilt; instead get started in the right direction with help from a pet professional using positive reinforcement methods.

11. Using treats for training is bribery, and the dog won't do the behavior later if you don't give her a treat.

False. It's true that dogs need motivation to perform a behavior. That said, the motivation doesn't always have to be a food-based reward. Dogs can be rewarded in many other ways. Reward them with playing, petting or getting to go outside. They can also be put on a random schedule of rewards with a lottery-ticket-like system so they never know when the payout will come. This system helps keep them motivated. For example: learning to walk on a loose leash may be taught in the beginning by using treats, but once the behavior is learned, treats can be phased out so that the only reward becomes getting to go on the walk itself.

12. When a dog chews up shoes or destroys furniture it's because she's punishing the owner.

False. Dogs chew on shoes, furniture and other human items not to punish their owners, but simply because it feels good on their teeth, it relieves boredom, releases energy and, in some cases, may indicate separation anxiety.

13. A dog can't really be happy unless she can run off-leash.

False. Leashes are made for a dog's safety. They should be perceived as tools that keep your dog from running into oncoming traffic, going up to unknown dogs or people, and prevent them from running way. Although regular off-leash play in a fenced area is essential for a dog's well-being, while out in public, dogs can learn to be perfectly content on a leash at their owner's side.

14. Dogs are great judges of people, so if a dog doesn't like someone, it must mean there is something wrong with that person.

False. In the majority of cases, dogs who react aggressively or fearfully to a person are not doing so out of a negative moral evaluation of the individual, but are responding out of their own self-preservation. With that said, there have been plenty of circumstances where pets have used an apparent sixth sense to pick up on cues that went unseen by their human and actually saved their human's life. However, the majority of dogs I see in my training practice are unfriendly with a person because they are reacting out of fear to a certain physical attribute, movement or the physical proximity of a person, and are not reacting based on any moral evaluation of the individual.

Source: VetStreet
© 2012 Vetstreet


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Forgotten Dog's Christmas  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's a great poem that I thought I would pass on... Merry Christmas! –Kim

A Forgotten Dog's Christmas

'Twas the night before Christmas, when all through the house,
  Not a creature was stirring, not even a mouse.

The stockings were hung by the chimney with care,
  In hopes that St. Nicholas soon would be there.

The children were nestled all snug in their beds
  With no thought of the dog filling their head.

And mamma in her 'kerchief and I in my cap
  Knew he was cold, but didn't care about that.

When out on the lawn there arose such a clatter,
  I sprang from the bed to see what was the matter.

Away to the window I flew like a flash,
  Figuring the dog was free of his chain and into the trash.

The moon on the breast of the new-fallen snow
  Gave the luster of mid-day to objects below.

When, what to my wondering eyes should appear,
  But Santa Claus – with eyes full of tears.

He un-chained the dog, once so lively and quick –
  Last year's Christmas present, now painfully thin and sick.

More rapid than eagles he called the dog's name
  And the dog ran to him, despite all his pain.

"Now, DASHER! Now, DANCER! Now, PRANCER and VIXEN!
  On, COMET! On CUPID! On, DONNER and BLITZEN!

To the top of the porch! To the top of the wall!
  Let's find this dog a home where he'll be loved by all."

I knew in an instant there would be no gifts this year,
  For Santa Claus had made one thing quite clear.

The gift of a dog is not just for the season;
  We had gotten the pup for all the wrong reasons.

In our haste to think of the kids a gift,
  There was one important thing that we missed.

A dog should be family, and cared for the same;
  You don't give a gift, then put it on a chain.

And I heard him exclaim as he rode out of sight,
  "You weren't given a gift! You were given a LIFE!"

– Author Unknown

Source: Furry Friends Rescue
© 1998-2012 Furry Friends Rescue


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Separation Anxiety in Pets  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's a great article that I thought I would pass on...hope you find it helpful! –Kim

Overview of Pet Separation Anxiety
December 1, 2010

Dogs with separation anxiety destroy objects, urinate, defecate, vomit or salivate when they are left alone. In extreme cases, dogs can be left alone for no longer than 10 or 15 minutes before they panic and exhibit behavior associated with anxiety. Sometimes separation anxiety is caused by a change in schedule that necessitates the dog be left alone for longer that normal. Idiopathic changes in older dogs may also cause sudden separation anxiety.

Separation anxiety may also be associated with a traumatic event such as being in the house during a fire, during a burglary attempt, or while an alarm system sounded. Dogs at risk for separation anxiety include those rescued from humane shelters, laboratory situations, the street, and those that have spent a lot of time in kennels or with a housebound person.

Treatment for Separation Anxiety in Pets

Treatment for separation anxiety teaches the dog that it does not have to be fearful and panic when it is left alone. Most dogs respond to a smaller space where they feel secure, such as a crate. If the dog panics when crated, do not force it. This will make the situation worse.

Behavior modification for dogs with separation anxiety is designed to teach the dogs to "sit," "stay," and "relax" while the owner performs various behaviors, some of which may be upsetting to the dog. The dog is trained to do this exercise with all members of the household, in each room of the house, and outside. Dogs with separation anxiety are usually anxious in various situations and it is important to teach them to relax at every opportunity. Each member of the household should practice training the dog every day.

Next, the dog is left alone for gradually increasing amounts of time. Crate the dog or isolate it in a small, well-lit, temperature-controlled room when you are not at home. Make sure that the room is safe (i.e., no dangling cords, uncovered electrical outlets, open areas of water, such as a toilet) and provide a blanket or bedding, water, toys, and a biscuit. Remove the dog's collar (to prevent strangulation) and remove anything in the room that can be destroyed. Leave the television or radio on and place an additional light on a timer to go on 15 to 20 minutes before you come home. A timer can be used to modify behavior and signal to the dog that you will be returning. If possible, have someone visit the dog during the day.

Separation anxiety can sometimes be relieved if the dog can observe the outside world (e.g., if the crate can be placed by sliding glass doors). Some dogs do better if they are safely and comfortably left outside.

Desensitize the dog to cues that indicate you are about to leave for the day. Pick up your keys, but do not go anywhere; put on makeup and dress up on the weekend; go to work wearing a jogging suit; use a different door than normal; change your daily routine. This helps to reduce the dog's anxiety-based behavior, which may include:

  • pacing
  • panting
  • whining
  • pupil dilation
  • ear movement
  • frequent solicitation of attention
  • hiding and
  • jumping

Most dogs with separation anxiety require anti-anxiety medication, especially those that experience sudden anxiety caused by trauma. Anti-anxiety medications have limited side effects and tremendous benefits.

http://www.animalhealthchannel.com/separationanxiety/index.shtml
© 2010 Healthcommunities.com, Inc.


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How to Cure Dog Separation Anxiety in 10 Days or Less with Five Super Easy Steps

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Whose Walk Is It, Anyway?  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's a great article that I thought I would pass on...hope you find it helpful! –Kim

What Walking Means to Your Dog

Quite often, when I'm out walking the dogs, I see numerous other dog/handler teams out and about for a stroll in the neighborhood.

I see all kinds of things that I don't particularly like – dogs getting yanked around on leashes, yelled at, and constantly scolded. I can't recall a single time I've seen a dog in my neighborhood actually get a treat for doing the right thing when out on a walk.

But of all the things I see on walks, one of the most frustrating for me is seeing dogs being punished, incessantly, for being dogs.

Sometimes it seems as though owners take their dogs on a walk and forget what a walk is all about for their dog. For dogs, a walk is about sights, sounds, experiences. It's about checking "p-mail," sniffing hydrants and trees to find out where the neighbor's dog or cat last peed. It's about shoving their faces down the hole of a groundhog and sniffing until they finally pull their faces out, dirty, blissful, nostrils full of the smell of wild animals. It's about munching a particularly tender blade of grass, saying "hello" to a friendly stranger they'd like to greet, lifting a leg on every fire hydrant, sign, or tree you pass, splashing in a puddle or creek, or chewing a stick for a brief moment.

This is what walks mean to dogs. It's a chance to investigate and interact with their environment. It's mental and physical stimulation.

Many owners approach a walk with the mentality that, "We're going to walk x route in y amount of minutes whatever that takes. It will be your exercise for the day and you'd better well like it." It's a "let's just get this over with" mentality, a "you're an imposition to me and I'm doing this because I have to, not because I like to," mentality. For these people and their dogs, walking is a chore. For me, Cuba, and Mokie, more often than not, it's a game.

Let's face facts. For many, many dogs, a half hour leash walk every day barely scratches the surface of their true exercise needs. Mokie, my Chow mix, is a very active dog and for her, a walk is certainly more about mental stimulation than it is about physical stimulation. A 30-minute walk is a drop in the bucket for her. If I want to really tire her out, we need to go hiking, backpacking, swimming, or have a long and adventurous romp with some of her favorite doggy pals.

When we go on a walk, I'm walking for my dogs. It's their chance to just get out there and be dogs, to sniff and explore. If I want to go on a brisk, no-nonsense, let's-not-stop-for-anything-power walk (which happens rarely, I just can't see the point in walking without at least one dog and would feel utterly naked), I would go without the dogs.

Despite the fact that I'm a trainer, I also don't insist on perfect obedience from my dogs when we walk. A colleague once said, "well, my dogs would NEVER pull on the leash, because I'm a dog trainer." Well, la-dee-dah. Dogs are dogs. They move faster than we do and think poop is more interesting than we do. I'm not saying I let my dogs pull me around, but sometimes the leash does go tight. So what? I just stop, wait for the tension to come off the leash, and we start walking again. Easy-peasy. No mess, no fuss.

I do use equipment as a cue for the type of walk we're having. If I'm going on a training walk, where we're going to work on heeling or obedience, my dogs can wear their collars and six foot leashes. If we're going on fun, "for the dogs" walk, they get to wear front-clip harnesses and a long-line or flexi leash. (For dogs — and owners of dogs – that are not already trained to walk politely on a regular leash, a flexi leash can actually be both a safety risk and inhibit the learning of appropriate leash manners.) When they have those "clothes" on, they know they're off the hook. It's dog time – do whatever you want. Sure, I'll still call them back and reinforce them for coming, ask for a few steps in heel and reward with a chance to shove their face in a hole dug by a woodchuck, or ask for a few hand targets and reward with a stick tossed into the creek for retrieving.

But my dogs aren't always "on." They're not always performing, I'm not always rigid. I don't spend every second we're together thinking of criteria, reinforcement schedules, etc. I think of behaviors I like, and try to find ways to make it fun for them to offer those behaviors by giving them the things they want and need. Yes, dogs do NEED to sniff things and interact with their environment.

Sometimes, I'm not even a dog trainer, I'm just She Who Likes to Have Fun with Dogs.

I don't want robots, I want canines. Yes, I find their good behavior rewarding and fulfilling. It makes me proud to know how wonderful my dogs are. But at the same time, I want them to have plenty of opportunities to just do the things that they like to do, even if means that they're sniffing for 30 minutes our of a 45 minute walk and we only make it around four or five blocks instead of walking a few miles. Sometimes, I let the dogs pick the route we take on our walk. Something smells good on Fairview Avenue? Let's go that way instead of taking Riverside today!

Next time you leash your dog up for a walk, ask yourself, "whose walk is it anyway?"

Source: http://blogs.dogster.com/dog-training/whos-walk-is-it-anyway/2010/08/
Copyright 2010 Dogster, Inc.

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Problem Dog Behaviors  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , ,

Here's a great article that I thought I would pass on...hope you find it useful! –Kim

Jumping Up on People or Escaping & Running
By Dawn Keadic

Every dog owner must eventually deal with some unwanted behaviors on the part of their four legged companions. Some of the most frequently encountered training problems with puppies and dogs alike are jumping on people and performing those amazing feats of escape.

Jumping up on people

Jumping up on people can be a cute trick for puppies, but it quickly becomes a problem behavior as the dog gets older, larger and heavier. A very heavy dog can easily knock a child or even a small adult of his or her feet, so jumping on people can be a dangerous problem as well as an annoying one.

The reason puppies and older dogs jump on people is obvious – they are excited and happy to see them. Many people are reluctant to discourage this exuberant behavior, but it is important to redirect that happiness and energy in other ways. Many well meaning owners, family members and friends inadvertently encourage this jumping up behavior by picking the puppy up, kissing it or otherwise providing encouragement.

This type of inconsistency is anathema to proper dog training, and in order for the dog to be trained not to jump, every member of the family must recognize and accept the importance of the training. If one member of the family allows the dog to jump up while other family members do not, the dog will understandably become confused and frustrated. The training must be firm, kind and consistent in order to be effective.

One way to redirect the dog's happiness and excited ness from jumping is to teach him to lift his paw when greeting you. This "shaking hands" posture is an acceptable way for the dog to show his happiness and his respect. Many people even teach their dogs to do simple tricks, like rolling over, instead of jumping on people.

Escaping and roaming the neighborhood

A responsible dog owner would never dream of allowing his or her dog to roam the neighborhood freely. Allowing a dog to roam on its own is irresponsible, dangerous (to the dog and the neighborhood) and probably even illegal. Most towns have ordinances which prohibit dogs from being allowed to roam around free, so you could be in legal trouble if your dog is found wandering the neighborhood unattended.

Of course, sometimes that wandering dog is not the owner's idea, and many dogs perform amazing feats of escape when left on their own. The temptations for unattended dogs are many, including passing bicycles, joggers, children, cats and other dogs. It is much easier to prevent escapes than to recapture a loose dog, so let's talk about some preventative measures every dog owner can take.

Removing the motivation to escape is a big part of the solution. A bored dog is much more likely to spend his day plotting the great escape. A dog that is surrounded by everything he or she needs, like lots of toys, a soft bed, and plenty of fresh clean, water, is more likely to spend his or her day contentedly sleeping or playing with toys until the owner returns.

In addition, a dog with lots of pent up, unused energy is likely to try to escape. Try incorporating several vigorous play sessions with your dog into your daily routine. Make one of those play sessions right before you leave. If your dog has a chance to work out his or her energy, chances are he or she will sleep or relax much of the day.

Of course, dealing with the dog is only half the problem. It is also important to make the property as escape-proof as possible, through proper fencing and other measures. For dogs that dig, it may be necessary to extend the fence underground by placing metal stakes in the ground every few feet. For dogs that jump, it may be necessary to make the fence higher. And if none of these measures work, it may be necessary to confine the dog to the house when you are not at home.

Source: http://www.chicagodogtrainer.com/index.php/chicago-dog-training-articles/52-problem-dog-behaviors

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Tethered Dogs May Turn to Aggression  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's a great article that I thought I would pass on...hope you find it helpful! –Kim

Chaining Dogs Unleashes Bad Behavior
By Victoria Stilwell, Special for USA TODAY
8/12/2009

I am constantly surprised at the number of my clients who regularly chain or tie their dog in the backyard for long periods of time and then wonder why the dog is misbehaving on and off the leash.

Unfortunately, such tethering is common practice in the U.S. because of the less structured design of American real estate and common lack of fencing between properties. The well-meaning but misguided rationale I usually hear is that tethering is the only way for the dog to be under control outside without owner supervision.

Further, many clients have the incorrect belief that if the dog is outside most of the time, it doesn't need to be walked and won't suffer as much from lack of human contact.

Don't make the mistake of thinking that keeping your dog in your backyard most of the day will replace his natural need for stimulation and get you off the hook for not walking him. In fact, it almost always does more harm than good, since the backyard becomes just another "room" in which he can quickly get bored.

At the mercy of kids and other animals

A study by the American Veterinary Medical Association in 2000 showed that 17% of fatal dog attacks on humans between 1979 and 1998 were from dogs that were restrained on their property by tethers at the time of the attack, and many of the victims were children.

So why are chained dogs more likely to bite, and why are the incidences of these attacks becoming so common?

Tethered dogs have a greater tendency to respond aggressively to an approaching person (even if it's someone the dog knows), yet owners often seem unaware that continual confinement can cause immense frustration, which leads to increased reactivity or desire to chase and bite a person. Certain dogs are particularly territorial, becoming protective over space or property and putting anything approaching their territory at risk.

Dogs tethered in yards with no fences are much more accessible to the public, including children who often can't resist touching or sometimes teasing a dog. Unable to increase the distance between itself and an approaching stranger, the dog has no option but to fight. Tethered dogs are also at the mercy of other animals that may wander onto their territory and are at risk of getting tangled in their tethers and being injured.

A dog is a social animal, so lack of social interaction can seriously damage its psychological well-being, causing a buildup of frustration and anger that can explode at the slightest trigger.

Other commonplace scenarios besides tethering can create what dog behaviorist Jean Donaldson describes as "barrier frustration." Crate training is a popular and sometimes effective method of house training a puppy, but some dogs can't cope in such a confinement. Lack of space can cause excessive anxiety, which manifests itself in whining, barking or chewing on the crate. Dogs that suffer separation anxiety often become more anxious in crates.

Owner and pet in a dangerous cycle

A dog can experience similar frustration on the leash. In normal circumstances, an unleashed dog would be able to put sufficient distance between itself and a fear source, but if the same dog is leashed and unable to increase distance, he will react or behave aggressively, hoping the fear source will go away. If his behavior is validated by success, he is likely to react in the same manner again. In response, the owner often becomes tense when walking and keeps the leash tight, transmitting the nervousness down the leash to the dog, effectively making the behavior worse. Dog and owner are then locked into a cycle of tension and leash-lunging that's hard to change.

Many common behavioral problems could be avoided if owners understood how severely confinement can compromise natural behavior. Some local governments are becoming aware of the potential problems that chaining can cause for dogs and humans, and many cities and counties are making tethering illegal.

The key is to see the world from the dog's point of view if we want to understand why dogs behave as they do. Only then can we truly identify the root cause of the behavior and humanely solve the problem using positive reinforcement.

Source: http://www.usatoday.com/life/lifestyle/pets/2009-08-12-stilwell-dog-chains_N.htm
Copyright 2009 USA Today


Victoria Stilwell is the host of Animal Planet's "It's Me or the Dog." Her no nonsense, common sense approach to dog training is both practical and effective. It's about educating owners on how to see things from a dog's perspective and use positive reinforcement to encourage good behavior. With a little patience and effort, anyone can live happily with their canine companions. Visit Victoria Stilwell on the Web, get her training tips and watch full episodes of "It's Me or the Dog" by clicking http://animal.discovery.com/tv/its-me-or-dog/index.html or http://www.victoriastilwell.com

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List of No-kill Shelters and Rescues

List of No-kill Shelters and Rescues: 
NATIONAL SEARCH
Find local shelters near you! LOCAL SEARCH
You can adopt or foster from any of these shelters or donate to support their efforts. Be sure to confirm that they are a "no-kill" shelter. Then, be a part of the solution!

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