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39 Secrets Your Dog Won't Tell You  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's a great list that I thought I would pass on...very interesting! –Kim

39 Secrets Your Dog Won't Tell You

We asked animal behaviorists, nutritionists, veterinarians and pet groomers to shed some light on what your furry friends would tell you if they could.

By Michelle Crouch
Reader's Digest Magazine
May 2014

1. You think my tail wagging is always an invitation for you to pet me more. Wrong!
Italian researchers found that dogs wag their tails slightly to the right when they see something they like and to the left when they're confronted with something they want to back away from.

2. You might buy any old dog-grooming brush at the pet store...
...but you should really pick the right one for my coat. A rubber brush will promote circulation and loosen dirt. A bristle brush removes dead hair.

3. You're giving me too much food.
How can you tell? I don't seem motivated by food treats when you're trying to train me. Cut back, and I'll start to pay attention.

4. Grooming day means you bring out the big blow-dryer. Don't!
To make dogs like me look fluffy, shake a little cornstarch into the base of the fur and then brush. It will absorb oil and grease and detangle matted fur.

5. Please don't rush me when I'm going to the bathroom.
There's a reason dogs circle around before getting down to business: We have an instinct to be aligned with the earth's magnetic field before we poop. In fact, researchers watched 70 of us engage in 1,893 defecations over a two-year period just to figure this out.

6. You may think it's nice to let me sleep all day, but too much nap time can affect my personality.
A lot of behavioral problems can be solved by just taking your dog on a daily walk or by playing with your cat for 20 minutes every day.

7. Since I'm an old dog, I get to eat whatever I want, yes? No!
If I have arthritis, I'll be much happier if you give me a daily supplement that contains glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate, which protect joint cartilage. And switch me to a food formulated for an animal my age.

8. If you lose me...
...the first thing you should do is call every animal shelter within 100 miles of home, and visit the nearest shelters every day if you can. Many animal control bureaus euthanize animals if they go unclaimed for a specific amount of time. (For good measure, be sure to get me a microchip when I'm young.)

9. If you're getting me spayed...
...ask your vet if she can remove just my ovaries, not my uterus. A much less invasive procedure, it's the way cats and dogs are spayed in Europe, and many U.S. veterinarians have already made the switch.

10. Because I'm a creature of habit, even a subtle change in my behavior is a red flag that I might be sick.
So if it takes me an hour to eat my food instead of 60 seconds as usual, if I'm tiring out faster when we play, if there are more urine clumps in the litter box than usual, or if I seem to be drinking more water, call the vet right away.

11. There's no question that if you keep me inside and don't let me wander the neighborhood...
I'll have a better chance of living a longer life. I won't get hit by a car, stolen, or just plain lost. But once I've been allowed to roam free, it'll be hard to change me.

12. Please introduce me around when I'm young so I'm not afraid of strangers.
Some experts say I should meet 100 new people of different sizes, genders, and ethnicities in my first 100 days at home, even if it's just a quick greeting. Make sure you include people wearing hats and sunglasses, since those accessories can look awfully scary to me.

13. You may think it's cute when I rub my butt on the carpet...
...but it probably means that I'm itchy and would like to see a vet.

14. When you're choosing a new furry friend, ask a vet or trainer for simple tests you can do to gauge temperament.
For example, you can try rolling me over on my back to see how I handle it. If I really struggle, I'm probably going to be tougher to train than an animal who lies there placidly.

15. Forget the Milk-Bones!
If you want me to really pay attention when you're training me, use a treat that's moist, something so gross, you don't even want to hold it in your hand, like a piece of greasy chicken.

16. While some of us gulp down grass only if we've eaten something that doesn't agree with us and we're trying to regurgitate it...
...others of us just love to munch the lawn. So let me graze – just make sure the grass I'm eating is free of pesticides.

17. Beware, Mom, because I will eat your underwear...
...especially if they've been worn. Veterinarians surgically remove hundreds of pairs from dogs' bellies every year.

18. Please, please can I choose my own bed?
The most comfortable one will depend on how I sleep. Let me try out a few in a pet store. If I usually sleep with my legs sprawled out, I'll be more comfortable on a flat bed without side bumpers. But if I like to curl up, I'll probably love a bumper bed.

19. You say I'm great with kids, but...
...if I'm licking, pulling my ears back, turning my head away, or yawning (all signs of anxiety) while they play with me, I'm probably just barely tolerating them. If you keep letting them pull my tail, one of these days, I might lose it.

20. Hold those clippers!
No matter how high the mercury climbs or how long my hair is, I don't need to be shaved. My undercoat actually insulates me from heat, so it helps me stay cool. Just make sure you keep my coat brushed and mat-free to promote good air circulation.

21. If you leave me in the backyard when you're not home...
...don't fool yourself that I'm going to run around and have fun. The truth is, I'm probably going to sit in one spot and wait for you to return. Dogs are den animals, and many of us prefer to be inside, ideally with you.

22. I love to fetch and would like to learn how to catch a flying disc...
...but those hard plastic FRISBEEs can hurt my teeth and gums. Instead, look for a soft one at a pet store.

23. If I'm not used to strangers and you reach out toward me when you first meet me...
...your hand may as well be a meat cleaver. Instead, crouch down on one leg and look slightly away. Then let me approach you and give you a sniff.

24. Let's get one thing straight: Declawing is not the same as cutting our nails.
It's a hideous, painful surgery that's much more like amputating the last two knuckles of your fingers. If my scratching is really bad, try glue-on nail caps.

25. If I'm spraying "outside the box," I'm not being spiteful.
Something is stressing me out. It may be a new person, a new pet, or even a new piece of furniture in the house that seems to be encroaching on my territory.

26. I'm confused. When I jumped up on you earlier...
...you gave me such a nice pet. But now you're mad at me for jumping on Aunt Martha. Am I allowed to jump up or not?

27. If you let me on the furniture now, while I'm young and cute...
...I will always think it's OK, no matter how big I get.

28. What do you mean you can't teach an old dog new tricks?
My owner taught me to fetch the newspaper from the driveway and take it to him when I was ten.

29. Remember when I was little and you shoved my nose in a puddle of pee I left?
I have no idea why you did that. Instead, get me outside as quickly as possible and praise me whenever I pee outdoors.

30. Want me to learn to walk by your side on a leash?
Well, give me some incentive. As soon as I start to pull ahead, stop walking. When I turn and look back, offer me a treat right next to your leg. I'll quickly figure out I need to stay next to you in order to keep doing what I love most: moving and exploring.

31. If you're tired of finding pet hair on your sofa and want to keep me off...
...try a Scat Mat, which gives out a small, harmless electrostatic pulse when it's stepped on. Or buy a car mat and turn it upside down on your couch, so the little rubber prongs are facing up. I hate those.

32. When I bark, jump, and grab the towel off the countertop...
...I'm not trying to be bad. I'm just bored! I want your attention! Please, get off your smartphone and play with me.

33. If I'm a dog who is scared of thunderstorms or loud noises, get me a snug-fitting Thundershirt.
Or you can make your own. Wrap an Ace bandage across my chest, cross it over the top of my body and then back under, going over and under until it's midway down my back, and then secure it. The constant pressure against the middle of my body will help ease my anxiety and calm me down.

34. Remember, my digestive system is very different from yours.
Raisins and grapes can shut down a dog's kidneys. Other dangerous foods include chocolate, coffee, macadamia nuts and avocado.

35. Want my coat to be thick and shiny?
Make sure my diet has plenty of essential fatty acids. Most high-quality commercial pet foods have enough, but pets on low-quality foods or homemade diets that aren't balanced may develop a dull coat.

36. Every bag of pet food has an Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) statement on the label...
...although you might need a magnifying glass to read it. Look for one that says the food has undergone animal feeding trials rather than one that's been “formulated” by a computer. The trials are expensive, but they indicate that real dogs actually ate the food for six months with good results.

37. Check with a board-certified veterinary nutritionist before giving me a homemade-food diet.
Researchers at the University of California, Davis, who examined 200 recipes last year for home-prepared dog food found that 95 percent had some serious nutritional deficiencies.

38. Did you hear the hype about grain-free cat and dog food?
That's what it is: hype. There's nothing wrong with feeding me grains – they can actually be an important part of a balanced diet. Before you make any change, talk to your vet.

39. If you switch me to a raw diet, I may end up with cracked teeth or a bacterial infection.
Also, exposure to my feces could put anyone with a weakened immune system at risk. That's why the ASPCA, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, and other institutions all strongly discourage raw diets.

Sources: Brian Hare, PhD, codirector of the Canine Cognition Center at Duke University; Rebecca Remillard, PhD, DVM, DACVN, a veterinary nutritionist at North Carolina State University and founder of petdiets.com; Jorge Bendersky, a groomer and pet stylist in New York City; Spencer Williams, owner and president of West Paw Design, a company that makes pet toys and beds; Nancy Kay, DVM, author of Speaking for Spot: Be the Advocate Your Dog Needs to Live a Happy, Healthy, Longer Life; Jennifer Coates, DVM, veterinary adviser to petmd.com; Victoria Schade, dog-training and behavioral expert at pet360.com and author of Bonding with Your Dog: A Trainer's Secrets for Building a Better Relationship; Sophia Yin, DVM, a veterinarian and animal behaviorist and the author of How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves; K. C. Theisen, director of pet-care issues at the Humane Society of the United States; Amy Farcas, DVM, DACVN, a veterinary nutritionist at the University of Pennsylvania; Marilyn Krieger, cat behavioral consultant and author of Naughty No More; Karen “Doc” Halligan, DVM, author of Doc Halligan's What Every Pet Owner Should Know; Jackson Galaxy, cat behaviorist and host of Animal Planet's My Cat from Hell; Stephen Zawistowski, PhD, animal behaviorist and adviser at the ASPCA.

Source: Reader's Digest
©2014 The Reader's Digest Association, Inc.


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Renting with Dogs  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's a great article that may help whenever you're ready to move... –Kim

Renting with Dogs

You've taken the first step – you've decided to begin your journey for your next dream rental. As the famous saying goes, there's no place like home. And, like all responsible pet owners know, your dog's coming with you.

As a new tenant, there's no doubt you'll want to work hard and take the extra necessary measures to please your landlord, especially if he's cautious about having a pet in the mix. While every situation is different, it's best to err on the side of preparation and know what to expect from your landlord before the lease is signed and the deal is sealed.

Here are some questions your landlord may ask you regarding your dog:
  • How long have you had your dog?
  • Do you have written proof of vaccination/good health?
  • Were there any previous complaints about your dog at your previous rental?
  • May I contact your current/past landlords about your dog?
  • Who would look after your dog when you're away?
  • Has your dog been spayed or neutered, and is he/she housetrained?
  • Do you make a point of cleaning up after your dog?
  • How often is your dog alone at home?

Once the question process has been completed to both your satisfaction, your landlord may next develop a pet policy in the form of a written agreement between the two of you.

A basic pet policy may include the following:
  • Screening applications: A few simple questions will help sort out responsible pet owners and tenants.
  • A written agreement: This will ensure everyone has the same information regarding rules and regulations for pet owners.
  • Realistic limits: The pet policy should have clear guidelines on the type and number of pets allowed per dwelling.
  • Specific parameters: It is useful to set specific parameters concerning which common areas pets are and are not allowed to go, when dogs must wear leashes and whether any types of pets must be confined to tenants' apartments.
  • Assurance of cleanliness and healthy pets: Responsible pet owners will agree to immediately clean up after their pets and take all necessary sanitation precautions. They will also have a medical record of their pet to show all required vaccinations have been administered.
  • Written disciplinary procedures: Written procedures which are jointly agreed to and state clearly what actions will result in a warning or some sort of punitive action will reduce disputes and make for better relations between the property management and tenants.
  • Predetermined emergency arrangements: Property management may wish to have on hand details of local vets in case of emergency, especially in a situation where you are not immediately available.
  • Available services: An outline of the locations and availability of parks, pet washing services and other amenities in the local area may be included.
  • An agreement on cleanliness of premises: Tenants should readily agree to undertake to keep the property in excellent condition and free from animal odors and hairs.

Remember, it is more than possible to establish a friendly relationship with your landlord and co-exist in a way that's fair to everyone involved. If you're already a responsible dog owner, you're over the first hurdle!

Source: Pedigree: All Things Dog
©2014 Mars, Inc.


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Common Dog Behavior Myths  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's a great article about common myths...hope you find it informative! –Kim

14 Common Dog Behavior Myths Decoded

By Mikkel Becker
March 5, 2012

Although dog training has become more of a science than a craft in recent years, some persistent myths still mislead us when reading canine behavior. Don't let a myth harm your relationship with your pooch. Here, we dispel 14 common myths and look at the facts.

1. An old dog can't learn new tricks.

False. Old dogs not only learn new tricks but they thrive when trained. My late Pomeranian, Mr. Teddy, who was adopted at an estimated 10 to 13 years of age, was a training superstar in Vetstreet videos, which were filmed two weeks before he passed away. By the same token, older dogs without housetraining experience as puppies can successfully be housetrained. As long as a dog is mentally and physically capable of learning to perform a behavior and is properly motivated, it's entirely possible to train her. While intense agility training for Teddy was not realistic, teaching basic commands was.

2. A dog shouldn't sleep with you or be allowed on furniture, or she'll think she's the boss and will misbehave.

False. Just like humans, dogs simply want a comfortable place to lie down. If comfort can be combined with being next to their beloved human, whether it's right next to you on the couch, or even on top of your lap, then they're all for it. In rare cases, dogs will guard their sleeping and resting areas, and will show aggression when humans approach these sacred areas. This type of behavior will require remedial training. But for the average Rover, sleeping in bed or resting on the couch has no adverse behavioral effects.

3. When your dog has a potty accident, it's important to rub her nose in it to let her know what she did.

False. When you rub a dog's nose in her own mess, she often sees no association between that and her having had a potty accident. Nor does rubbing her nose in her accident teach her not to potty on the floor again. Instead, rubbing her nose in her accident teaches her that humans are dangerous and unpredictable, and she will likely begin to hide in safety by sneaking into another room to go to the bathroom, making housebreaking even more difficult.

4. A dog who cowers from people was likely abused in the past.

False. There are various reasons for dogs cowering, and not all of them are because a dog was abused. Commonly, the dog was not properly socialized or had negative experiences during her prime socialization period as a puppy. Genetics also play a role in the fearful dog. Other reasons for a dog to duck away might be that she has learned to dodge people who try to grab her collar, or she is uncomfortable with petting, such as having her ears handled. Unfortunately, well-meaning strangers often approach dogs by bending over the top of their heads and reaching down to pet, which will send timid dogs into a cowering position. A better way to approach is by getting into a kneeling position, with your body turned toward the side, and then inviting the dog to approach you. If you practice this method, it will be less likely to cause a canine to cower.

5. Shelter dogs have too much baggage. It's better to adopt a puppy to start with a clean slate.

False. Many shelter dogs are well-behaved pooches who, for an endless list of possible reasons, could not be kept by their original owners. Older shelter dogs make ideal candidates for people wanting to skip the puppy stages of chewing, potty training and mouthing. The interview process at most shelters also pairs canine candidates with the family setting that will best suit the dog's temperament, which can create cohesion from the beginning.

6. All dogs should enjoy being around other dogs. It's essential for dogs to go on outings with other dogs, such as at the dog park. If a dog doesn't enjoy other dogs, there is something wrong with her.

False. Not all people are social butterflies and neither are all dogs. Some dogs may prefer solitude and only a small, select group of people. Dogs also have their own preferences when it comes to other canines. Breeding can play a big role in their sociability, with terriers being notorious for contentiousness with other pooches. Other times, whether from lack of socialization as a puppy or simply an individual preference, dogs may not enjoy canine comradery. Even though plenty of dogs enjoy the dog park, not all of them enjoy the idea of dozens of other dogs frolicking around them and would instead prefer a quiet walk with their owners.

7. You should let dogs just fight it out when they get into a scuffle.

False (well, at least partly false). It's true that you should never get into the middle of a dog fight, because some of the most damaging dog bites occur when owners try to separate fighting dogs. There are some tactics you can use to break up the scuffle without actually getting in the middle of the fray. Try using water, a really loud noise, or even a distraction like grabbing a treat bag or using voice to direct them to do something else. Owners should do everything they can to prevent another fight in the future. Often dogs don't settle matters on their own, and fighting intensifies over time, especially with dogs in the same home. This calls for advanced training with the help of an animal behaviorist or a certified professional trainer.

8. My dog is trying to show she's in charge when she doesn't listen to me.

False. It's easy to attribute human motives like "getting even" or "being spiteful" to our dogs, but dogs don't have the same complex emotions as humans. The more realistic reasons why a dog doesn't do what's being asked is either because she doesn't understand what she's being asked to do, or the dog doesn't have the proper motivation to want to perform the behavior. For example, most dogs don't come when called because the payoff isn't worth it. When they do, they usually are put on a leash or taken into the house when they'd rather stay outside.

9. My dog knows she was bad after she goes potty in the house. Her guilty face says it all.

False. Dogs show a perceived "guilty face" not because they feel an actual emotion of guilt, but they are actually showing appeasement behaviors in response to their owners intimidating body language. Whether we want to or not, it's difficult not to display negative body language when we're upset with our pets. A 2009 study by researcher Alexandra Horowitz at Barnard College in New York revealed that the "guilty look" dogs display is solely attributed by humans and has no relation to whether the dog is actually responsible for an offense. The study found that dogs who had not actually eaten the forbidden treat, but were scolded by their misinformed owners for eating a treat, showed guiltier-looking body language than dogs who had actually eaten the forbidden treat. The guilty look is simply a response of the dog to her owner's behavior.

10. It's always the owner's fault when a dog misbehaves.

False. Most owners are well-meaning, but are simply misinformed or lack knowledge on how to train their dogs effectively. Blaming the owner for all of a dog's problems makes for good TV, but there are a myriad of reasons why a dog misbehaves, including lack of proper socialization or preventive training, or even the genetic tendencies of the dog. It's important for pet parents to push past feelings of shame or guilt; instead get started in the right direction with help from a pet professional using positive reinforcement methods.

11. Using treats for training is bribery, and the dog won't do the behavior later if you don't give her a treat.

False. It's true that dogs need motivation to perform a behavior. That said, the motivation doesn't always have to be a food-based reward. Dogs can be rewarded in many other ways. Reward them with playing, petting or getting to go outside. They can also be put on a random schedule of rewards with a lottery-ticket-like system so they never know when the payout will come. This system helps keep them motivated. For example: learning to walk on a loose leash may be taught in the beginning by using treats, but once the behavior is learned, treats can be phased out so that the only reward becomes getting to go on the walk itself.

12. When a dog chews up shoes or destroys furniture it's because she's punishing the owner.

False. Dogs chew on shoes, furniture and other human items not to punish their owners, but simply because it feels good on their teeth, it relieves boredom, releases energy and, in some cases, may indicate separation anxiety.

13. A dog can't really be happy unless she can run off-leash.

False. Leashes are made for a dog's safety. They should be perceived as tools that keep your dog from running into oncoming traffic, going up to unknown dogs or people, and prevent them from running way. Although regular off-leash play in a fenced area is essential for a dog's well-being, while out in public, dogs can learn to be perfectly content on a leash at their owner's side.

14. Dogs are great judges of people, so if a dog doesn't like someone, it must mean there is something wrong with that person.

False. In the majority of cases, dogs who react aggressively or fearfully to a person are not doing so out of a negative moral evaluation of the individual, but are responding out of their own self-preservation. With that said, there have been plenty of circumstances where pets have used an apparent sixth sense to pick up on cues that went unseen by their human and actually saved their human's life. However, the majority of dogs I see in my training practice are unfriendly with a person because they are reacting out of fear to a certain physical attribute, movement or the physical proximity of a person, and are not reacting based on any moral evaluation of the individual.

Source: VetStreet
© 2012 Vetstreet


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Dog Etiquette Rules  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's some great advice that I thought I would pass on...hope you find it interesting! –Kim

Space Etiquette for Dogs


NEWSFLASH! Running up to another dog and ignoring requests to go away is not "friendly," it is rude. Just like people, DOGS NEED PERSONAL SPACE. If a stranger came up and put his hand on your body, you'd be allowed to step back, yell and push him away. Dogs have the same right to enforce their boundaries. Some dogs are called "reactive" because they are more sensitive than others. Reactive dogs are good dogs, they just need more distance and compassionate training. You can help them by honoring their need for personal space.
  1. Never let your off-leash dog go up to an on-leash dog.
  2. Lock retractable leashes when you see other dogs.
  3. Ask before approaching or petting any dog.
  4. Have compassion for people with shy or reactive dogs.
Please do not chase us. Let us pass without interaction, and keep your judgments to yourself.

Source: http://doggiedrawings.net/post/842176625
© 2011 Lili Chin



7 Dog Etiquette Rules

By Janine Allen
May 24th, 2009

Wouldn't it be great if everyone else loved our dogs as much as we do? Increase the chances of this happening by following the etiquette rules listed below.
  1. No matter how well trained your dog is, put him on a leash when near strangers. People will appreciate your respect for their safety and well-being.
  2. Avoid approaching people or dogs directly when in public. Move off to the left or right to pass by; step off the curb if necessary. Fearful dogs and fearful people will be thankful.
  3. Always, when there is a leash in hand, put a poop bag in your pocket. Carry three: one for you, a spare and one to share.
  4. Leave your female dog at home when she is in season. Her pheromones will bring out the worst in otherwise well-behaved dogs.
  5. Ask, and be specific, before letting your dog approach people or other dogs. "Is he friendly?" gives no warning to other dog owners that you are going to let your dog lunge forward.
  6. When you have been invited to a home, event or activity, ask before bringing your dog.
  7. Until your dog is trained not to jump on people, put him away when guests arrive. Let him out after guests have settled in. Leash or tether him if he tends to nose, poke or paw people for attention.
Your dog would want others to think as highly of him as you do. Don't disappoint him.


Janine Allen (CPDT) is Rescue Me Dog's professional dog trainer. Janine's passion is working with people and their dogs. She provides demonstrations for those who have adopted shelter dogs, lends email support to adopted dog owners that need information beyond our Training Support Pages, and aids shelter staff and volunteers in understanding dog behavior to increase their adoptability.

Source: http://rescuemedog.org/dog-blog/7-dog-etiquette-rules/
Copyright 2013 Rescue Me Dog


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    There are No Bad Dogs...  

    Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

    Here are two great videos that I thought I would pass on...very moving! –Kim

    ...There are Only Bad Owners!

    This is the story of Edie, who classified as "unadoptable." She was rescued barely one hour before being put to death by a kill shelter.

    This is the story of Chase, also classified as "unadoptable." Chase was rescued on his last day before he was to be euthanized.

    No, there are NO bad dogs!

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    Pit Bull Controversy  

    Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

    Here's an interesting "interview" that I thought I would pass on...what are your thoughts on this controversial topic? Comments welcome! –Kim
      
    Interview with a Pit Bull
    By Mike Danahey
    December 29, 2010

     

    Elgin, Illinois – Protesters march down the Chicago Street bridge in opposition to a proposed law to ban pit bulls.
     
    Animal lovers are a passionate bunch, as the debate here showed earlier this year concerning a proposal for a pit bull ban in the city of Elgin, Illinois.
    So just as at the end of 2009, when we interviewed Jeff, the Lords Park bison, shortly before he passed away about efforts to save the zoo where he stays, this year we talked to Petey XXXL, the offspring of the pit bull from "Little Rascals" and Buster Brown Shoes fame, about the doggone controversy in the city in the suburbs.
    Here is what Petey had to say in a Q&A.
     
    Q: Why the controversy?
    A: So, from what I recall, some city councilman wanted to ban my kind after a fellow pit killed a Chihuahua in late spring 2009. Now, I am certainly not excusing what happened, as I wasn't there. But first, let's admit it: Little dogs can be really annoying. It's like what you people call a Napoleon complex, typically with a high-pitched yap. But you don't hear about anybody wanting to ban pesky little dogs, do you? Sure, they might not be able to kill you, but be honest. You've probably visited some pals with some hyper beast that you at the very least wished would be away at dog obedience school for a long stay.
    Second, thanks to the likes of Michael Vick, street gangs, drug dealers and gangster rappers, some of my brothers and sisters became a symbol of thuggery and toughness and were raised specifically to fight.
    Folks forget that back in the day, my family hawked kids' shoes and hung out with those "Little Rascals." Now we're the ones TV has taught you to love to hate. We're the go-to dogs to fill time on newscasts and to scare folks.
    Anyway, here in Elgin, you've had a number of wannabe tough guys walking about with my kind at their sides, trying to intimidate people. Imagine how some of them raise their dogs. Nature versus nurture. Remember that debate from school? Which is to say, there has been trouble.

    Q: So how did things wind up in Elgin?
    A: From what I recall, the controversy reached its conclusion at a council session in March, held in the ballroom in The Centre downtown to accommodate a crowd of more than 250, many of them there to plead for my breed. One person even brought a stuffed toy pit bull muzzled and leashed and sitting in the front row for council members – and TV crews from Chicago – to see. That sort of freaked me out. It was getting a little too close to being a Springer-meets-Oprah show, and I should know because my owner watches way too much TV.
    After all the impassioned speeches from the audience, Councilman John Prigge, the most vocal proponent of a full-out pit bull ban, read from a prepared statement saying he was now ready to compromise.
    While still feeling pit bulls – however you define my type – are dangerous, Prigge was willing to give owners of such dogs a chance to show "they are every bit as responsible as they've assured us they are." Prigge promised that he would be vigilant and that if there was another "pit bull attack in this city or if circumstances otherwise warrant, I will request we revisit this issue and suggest we implement all of the proposed pit bull regulations to prevent any further attacks."
    It was very dramatic, like he was buddies with Batman or had watched "Mr. Smith Goes to Washington." Hey, my owner has Netflix, too.

    Q: So what's happened since?
    A: There still have been incidents with pit bulls, most notably police shooting two dogs roaming Festival Park on Memorial Day weekend and Mayor Ed Schock and his German shepherd having a tussle with two unleashed dogs in late June. But Prigge hasn't revisited the ban.
    The city put its new laws into effect in June. The revamped ordinance allows an animal control officer to designate a dog as either dangerous or vicious in the case of an attack of either another dog or a human. It defines a dangerous dog as one that attacks and injures, and a vicious dog is one that attacks and causes severe injuries or death. A dog deemed dangerous or vicious has to register with the city for a three-year, $100 license. Such animals have to wear registration and rabies shot tags, and the owner must have proof such pets have been neutered or spayed, and microchipped.
    Vicious and dangerous dogs also must be kept locked when outside, in fencing at least 6 feet tall. Owners need to secure a minimum $100,000 liability insurance if they have a dog deemed dangerous, and owners of vicious dogs need at least $500,000 in liability insurance. Dangerous dogs on public property must be muzzled and on a short leash and with an adult, while vicious dogs are not allowed on public property.
    The new rules also help better protect pets from bad owners, with stiffer penalties given for mistreating an animal and for leaving a pet to bark outside and annoy neighbors.
     
    Q: What do you think about all of this?
    A: As far as I can tell, the city added bite to what it does, did it fairly, and didn't go all poodle on the town and act hysterically.
    With higher fines in place, this fall the city council even approved allowing people to work off doggie-related debts with community service. And in late November, Prigge spearheaded an event at the Hemmens Cultural Center where residents could get shots and microchips for their dogs and cats at just $35 a pet. Speaking of cats, why is it OK for dopey people to let them run wild to eat birds, but we get the bad rap? And by bad rap, I mean "Who Let the Dogs Out?"
    Now, where's that steak bone you promised? And I need my belly scratched.

    Source: The Courier News
    © Copyright 2010 Sun-Times Media, LLC


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    8 Ways to Train Dogs Who Mark the Christmas Tree  

    Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

    Here's a great article that I thought I would pass on...hope you find it helpful! –Kim

    What to Do if Your Dog Likes to Pee on the Christmas Tree

    Your tree is up. It is an absolutely magnificent tree, covered in ornaments which hold great sentimental value or financial value (like my ridiculously expensive but oh-so-necessary pirate Santa ornament). The house smells like pine...and dog pee?!

    It is not uncommon for pet owners to find that male dogs have a tendency to mark the family Christmas tree, particularly when a real tree is brought into the home. The people in the house "get" that it's a Christmas tree. The dog in the house thinks you just got him his own indoor potty for Christmas. This culture clash creates stress for both humans and dogs during the holiday season.

    With the exception of working with dogs which are medically incontinent or with those who suffer from severe separation anxiety, the techniques used to address potty training deficiencies are all the same. Dealing with a dog that pees on the Christmas tree requires the exact same type of management, redirection and reinforcement that potty training a new puppy requires. Here is a protocol for managing and training the dog that marks on Christmas trees:

    1. Management and supervision – Your dog should never have unsupervised access to the Christmas tree. If you are unable to supervise him in the presence of the tree, he must be crated or gated elsewhere in the house. Do not hesitate to go back to the potty training basics you learned of crating, gating and tethering when you are not able to train or supervise.
    2. Know the signs – Many dogs offer "pre-indicator behaviors" – behaviors that are offered consistently before the event as a kind of "tell" that the dog needs to eliminate. This can be sniffing around, scratching at the ground, turning in circles or even approaching the tree. If you notice any indicator behaviors from your dog, get him out for a potty break right away!
    3. Reinforce success – While you're working on this, build a strong reinforcement history (with toys, food, and/or life rewards) for appropriate elimination outside.
    4. Click and treat the absence of the behavior. If your dog approaches the tree, sniffs it, and walks away, click and treat him! This is the behavior we want!
    5. Consider keeping your dog on a "traffic lead." A traffic lead is a very short leash, basically just a handle with a clasp. If your dog will not recall reliably under every conceivable circumstance, a traffic lead may not be a bad idea. It will ensure you are able to get your dog out quickly if you DO notice him going toward the tree as if to mark.
    6. Find out your dog's schedule. What times of the day does your dog normally eliminate? Provide plenty of opportunities for outside potty breaks during this time.
    7. Remember what events might trigger a dog's need to relieve himself – In general, dogs tend to eliminate after: naps, playtime, eating and/or drinking.
    8. Consider use of a Belly Band – Belly Bands are snug fitting fabric doggie wraps that are wrapped around a dog's lower torso. They are fitted with absorbent pads so that if your dog does mark, the liquid will be absorbed by the pad and not the beautiful, pristine white beard of your favorite pirate Santa ornament. You can make Belly Bands or purchase them online. A search for "dog Belly Band" should bring up all the information you need. Belly Bands are certainly management tools more than anything, they will not train your dog to avoid peeing on the tree but they will ensure that if management slips up, your tree remains pristine.

    Click HERE and HERE for more potty training tips.

    Click HERE and HERE for pet urine neutralizer, cat & dog urination deterrents.

    Click HERE and HERE for indoor potties for dogs.

    Source: http://blogs.dogster.com/dog-training/what-to-do-if-your-dog-is-a-christmas-tree-pee-r/2010/12/
    Copyright 2003-2010 Dogster, Inc.

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    Tips to Keep Your Pets Safe This Winter  

    Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

    Here's a great article that I thought I would pass on...hope you find it informative! –Kim

    Cold Weather Hazards that Threaten Your PetDec. 10, 2010
    As temperatures continue to plummet, pet owners must ensure the safety and well-being of their animals.
    Shelter, food and water: Cats should be kept inside at all times, year-round, to protect from the many life-threatening dangers always present outside. Dogs should also live inside. However, if your dog spends a lot of time outside, you are required by law to provide proper shelter. Outdoor dogs also need bedding and additional fat in their diets during the winter to help build up natural insulation. Make sure your pet has plenty of fresh, clean water in a secure, non-tip dish at all times. Check the water bowl frequently to make sure that it hasn't frozen.
    Keep them safe: Snow and ice increase an animal's chances of becoming disoriented and lost if roaming the streets. Bad weather conditions make it extra difficult for cars to stop, increasing the animal's chance of getting hit. Keeping pets indoors and walking your dog on a leash will prevent such tragedies.
    Beware of ice, salt, and snow: Jagged ice and sidewalk salt can injure or irritate a dog's foot pads. After returning home from a walk, check the foot pads and wipe off any salt or ice with a damp towel. Also, dry your dog thoroughly whenever it comes in from the snow. Consider using doggy boots for little feet.
    Danger of frostbite: Even though dogs and cats have a fur coat, most cannot endure severe cold for more than 10 to 15 minutes. A companion animal left outdoors can get frostbite and even freeze to death. Signs of frostbite include skin that is pale and cool to the touch, with decreased sensation in the affected area. If you suspect frostbite, gently warm the area with warm, not hot, water and then take the animal to a veterinarian. After thawing, there may be pain or redness on the frostbitten area. Once an area has been frozen it can become cold and frostbitten again more easily. Consider a doggy coat for your smaller canine friend.
    Keep away from anti-freeze: Animals are attracted to this substance by its sweet taste. It can be fatal if ingested, so keep all anti-freeze bottles out of your pet's reach. Also be sure to clean up any spills in your garage or driveway immediately. If your cat or dog should swallow anti-freeze – or any poison – contact your veterinarian immediately.
    Honk car's horn: In cold weather, cats allowed outdoors may crawl beneath cars and climb up inside the engine compartment seeking warmth and shelter. This can lead to injuries or death when the engines are started. To prevent such an occurrence, keep your cat indoors at all times. To protect stray cats, knock on your car's hood or sound your horn before starting the car in cold weather.
    Keep them groomed: Animals tend to shed hair less during the cold months, but still require regular brushing. Cats generally do not need a bath – they clean themselves. Dogs should be bathed only if needed and not more than once a month. When bathing any animal, be sure to use a shampoo that is specifically safe for a cat or dog and follow label directions completely.
    Holiday hazards: Mistletoe, holly and poinsettias are all poisonous to pets. Make sure your holiday tree is steady so it can't be knocked over. Protect your cat or dog from drinking stagnant Christmas tree water, eating candy, chocolate or potentially injurious ornaments, tinsel and trimming, or nibbling on the cords from decorations. Keep an eye on your pets to make sure they don't slip out the door as your visitors come and go. Do not give a cat or dog as a gift. Give a gift certificate for a pet adoption from a shelter and allow the recipient to select an animal that is appropriate for their lifestyle. Make sure your pet has a variety of toys or make your own.
     
    Source: http://couriernews.suntimes.com/news/2767099-417/dog-animal-cat-cats-cold.html
    © Copyright 2010 Sun-Times Media, LLC


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    Landlords and Pets  

    Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

    Here's a helpful article that I thought I would pass on. –Kim

    What to Know Before You Sign a Lease

    Pet owners searching for an apartment know it can sometimes be difficult finding a landlord willing to rent to you and your dog or cat. But once you find the perfect place, there are certain precautions you should take before signing your name to a lease and moving in.

    Landlords are not necessarily skeptical of people with dogs or cats. Responsible pet owners are usually responsible tenants, and landlords who permit pets know they have a larger pool of prospective tenants from which to draw – especially ones who are likely to stay longer if they feel their pets are welcomed.

    But renters have their own burden. If a landlord is reluctant to rent for any reason, you may have to prove that you and your pet can live within set guidelines and be good tenants.

    You should also read and understand the fine print regarding pets – size and weight restrictions, policies about barking, the number of dogs or cats you're permitted to own – plus security and cleaning deposits you'll have to pay. In recent years, some landlords have even begun charging pet rent; it's possible you may be charged $30 a month for your pet, in addition to deposits.

    Your ability to prove that you care for your dog may be what gets you through the front door – and it could be what keeps you there.

    First, read the lease thoroughly, especially the parts that relate to your pet. Make sure your dog or cat (or parakeet or snake, for that matter) fits within the limits established in the lease. If the apartment only allows small dogs and you own a Golden Retriever or a larger mixed breed, ask for an allowance – and then make sure it's written into the lease and initialed by you and the landlord.

    But negotiating might not always work. For instance, if a landlord does not allow a specific breed of dog because it can be known to be dangerous, don't expect him to stretch the rules.

    "If you set a policy, as a rental owner you have to apply that policy to everybody," says Eric Wiegers, deputy director of the California Apartment Association, a trade group that represents owners. "If you treat one applicant one way, you have to treat every applicant the same way."

    Be sure that you understand any required deposits (Wiegers said it's unlawful to charge more than twice the monthly rent for an unfurnished apartment; check your state's regulations). Before moving in, do a walk-through with the landlord to identify existing marks on carpeting or walls. Take photos and attach those to the lease. When you leave, they may help you get back your deposit if you have kept your apartment clean.

    The best way to convince your prospective landlord that you and your dog will make good tenants is to bring your dog for a visit when you find the right apartment. Bring along vet records showing that your pet has been spayed or neutered, is in good health, and is up to date on all vaccinations. Show proof that you apply flea medication on a monthly basis. Be willing to put in writing that you'll keep your dog on a leash when he's on property and that you'll pick up and dispose of his droppings; also, that you'll prevent him from relieving himself in flower beds.

    Some of these suggestions come from a group that has had an open door program in place for several years promoting policies and agreements between landlords and tenants. Prospective renters are shown how to write a pet resume and show their dog in the best light. Apartment owners are provided sample pet policies and checklists for screening and recognizing responsible pet people.

    "It benefits people who have pets because it means they don't have to give them up, which benefits shelters (and the pets, themselves), too," says a spokeswoman for the group.

    Check with your local shelter to see if they have a similar program, including a list of pet-friendly apartments.

    Source: http://dogtime.com/finding-pet-friendly-apartments.html
    ©2009 DogTime Inc.

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    Whose Walk Is It, Anyway?  

    Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

    Here's a great article that I thought I would pass on...hope you find it helpful! –Kim

    What Walking Means to Your Dog

    Quite often, when I'm out walking the dogs, I see numerous other dog/handler teams out and about for a stroll in the neighborhood.

    I see all kinds of things that I don't particularly like – dogs getting yanked around on leashes, yelled at, and constantly scolded. I can't recall a single time I've seen a dog in my neighborhood actually get a treat for doing the right thing when out on a walk.

    But of all the things I see on walks, one of the most frustrating for me is seeing dogs being punished, incessantly, for being dogs.

    Sometimes it seems as though owners take their dogs on a walk and forget what a walk is all about for their dog. For dogs, a walk is about sights, sounds, experiences. It's about checking "p-mail," sniffing hydrants and trees to find out where the neighbor's dog or cat last peed. It's about shoving their faces down the hole of a groundhog and sniffing until they finally pull their faces out, dirty, blissful, nostrils full of the smell of wild animals. It's about munching a particularly tender blade of grass, saying "hello" to a friendly stranger they'd like to greet, lifting a leg on every fire hydrant, sign, or tree you pass, splashing in a puddle or creek, or chewing a stick for a brief moment.

    This is what walks mean to dogs. It's a chance to investigate and interact with their environment. It's mental and physical stimulation.

    Many owners approach a walk with the mentality that, "We're going to walk x route in y amount of minutes whatever that takes. It will be your exercise for the day and you'd better well like it." It's a "let's just get this over with" mentality, a "you're an imposition to me and I'm doing this because I have to, not because I like to," mentality. For these people and their dogs, walking is a chore. For me, Cuba, and Mokie, more often than not, it's a game.

    Let's face facts. For many, many dogs, a half hour leash walk every day barely scratches the surface of their true exercise needs. Mokie, my Chow mix, is a very active dog and for her, a walk is certainly more about mental stimulation than it is about physical stimulation. A 30-minute walk is a drop in the bucket for her. If I want to really tire her out, we need to go hiking, backpacking, swimming, or have a long and adventurous romp with some of her favorite doggy pals.

    When we go on a walk, I'm walking for my dogs. It's their chance to just get out there and be dogs, to sniff and explore. If I want to go on a brisk, no-nonsense, let's-not-stop-for-anything-power walk (which happens rarely, I just can't see the point in walking without at least one dog and would feel utterly naked), I would go without the dogs.

    Despite the fact that I'm a trainer, I also don't insist on perfect obedience from my dogs when we walk. A colleague once said, "well, my dogs would NEVER pull on the leash, because I'm a dog trainer." Well, la-dee-dah. Dogs are dogs. They move faster than we do and think poop is more interesting than we do. I'm not saying I let my dogs pull me around, but sometimes the leash does go tight. So what? I just stop, wait for the tension to come off the leash, and we start walking again. Easy-peasy. No mess, no fuss.

    I do use equipment as a cue for the type of walk we're having. If I'm going on a training walk, where we're going to work on heeling or obedience, my dogs can wear their collars and six foot leashes. If we're going on fun, "for the dogs" walk, they get to wear front-clip harnesses and a long-line or flexi leash. (For dogs — and owners of dogs – that are not already trained to walk politely on a regular leash, a flexi leash can actually be both a safety risk and inhibit the learning of appropriate leash manners.) When they have those "clothes" on, they know they're off the hook. It's dog time – do whatever you want. Sure, I'll still call them back and reinforce them for coming, ask for a few steps in heel and reward with a chance to shove their face in a hole dug by a woodchuck, or ask for a few hand targets and reward with a stick tossed into the creek for retrieving.

    But my dogs aren't always "on." They're not always performing, I'm not always rigid. I don't spend every second we're together thinking of criteria, reinforcement schedules, etc. I think of behaviors I like, and try to find ways to make it fun for them to offer those behaviors by giving them the things they want and need. Yes, dogs do NEED to sniff things and interact with their environment.

    Sometimes, I'm not even a dog trainer, I'm just She Who Likes to Have Fun with Dogs.

    I don't want robots, I want canines. Yes, I find their good behavior rewarding and fulfilling. It makes me proud to know how wonderful my dogs are. But at the same time, I want them to have plenty of opportunities to just do the things that they like to do, even if means that they're sniffing for 30 minutes our of a 45 minute walk and we only make it around four or five blocks instead of walking a few miles. Sometimes, I let the dogs pick the route we take on our walk. Something smells good on Fairview Avenue? Let's go that way instead of taking Riverside today!

    Next time you leash your dog up for a walk, ask yourself, "whose walk is it anyway?"

    Source: http://blogs.dogster.com/dog-training/whos-walk-is-it-anyway/2010/08/
    Copyright 2010 Dogster, Inc.

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    Federal Police Officer Shoots Dog in Park  

    Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

    Family Demands Justice for Shooting
    August 4, 2010

    Authorities in Anne Arundel County say they won't file charges against a federal officer who entered an off-leash dog park with his leashed German shepherd and shot a Siberian husky, whom he thought was playing too roughly with his dog.

    Bear-Bear, a 3-year-old brown and white husky, was playing in the Quail Run dog park at about 6:30 p.m. Monday when the officer and his wife arrived with a German shepherd, who was kept on a leash.

    According to the Baltimore Sun, when the dogs began to play roughly, the federal officer asked Bear-Bear's guardian – the brother of the dog's owner – to call off the dog. Then, seconds later, he pulled out a gun and shot Bear-Bear.

    Bear-Bear died of his injuries a few hours later.

    Anne Arundel County police, astonishingly, have not named the federal officer, and – equally astonishingly – say no charges will be filed against him. No further investigation appears to be planned at the time of this story.

    "I've been bawling my eyes out since 7 p.m. last night," Rachel Rettaliata, Bear-Bear's owner, told the Sun. "It's grief mixed with anger. We're so angry this guy was able to take our animal for what we feel was no reason at all…We still don't believe that he's gone. We just want so badly to be diligent about this. [The officer] has to pay some sort of consequence for his foolishness."

    Rettaliata adopted Bear-Bear about two years ago from a husky rescue. He'd been seized from a Delaware home where people had tied him up outside and neglected him.

    "JUSTICE FOR BEAR-BEAR" window
    cling stickers are showing up on cars
    in the Arundel County area.

    Bear-Bear was a regular at the dog park in Quail Run, a community of townhomes. Neighbors say the park is generally an easygoing place where well-mannered dogs play with one another.

    "I've never personally seen him be aggressive toward any dog or human or anything, for that matter," Tarnna Hernandez, who lives two doors down from the Rettaliatas, told the Sun.

    "I have not seen that dog hurt anyone. Or snarl. He's never even barked," she said. "His only way was to get out a gun out and shoot him? Uh-uh. It's completely unbelievable."

    The manager of the homeowner's association, Dorothy Pearce, called the shooting "tragic... A community of homeowners with children playing around should not have gun-crazy, off-duty policemen shooting in their area – especially, a dog in a controllable situation."

    According to Rettaliata, Bear-Bear didn't cry out when shot. "He just went and laid down," she said.

    Carolyn Kilborn, chairwoman of Maryland Votes for Animals, based in Annapolis, said the case should be further investigated.

    "The killing of the dog in Severn is a sad situation that should be investigated carefully to determine if the incident was caused by a dangerous dog or a dangerous person," she said.

    A "Justice for Bear-Bear" Facebook page has been established, encouraging concerned citizens to contact county authorities through this email address.

    Source: http://www.ohmidog.com/2010/08/04/family-demands-justice-for-bear-bear/
    © 2010 ohmidog!


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    List of No-kill Shelters and Rescues

    List of No-kill Shelters and Rescues: 
    NATIONAL SEARCH
    Find local shelters near you! LOCAL SEARCH
    You can adopt or foster from any of these shelters or donate to support their efforts. Be sure to confirm that they are a "no-kill" shelter. Then, be a part of the solution!

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