Showing posts with label housetraining. Show all posts

39 Secrets Your Dog Won't Tell You  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's a great list that I thought I would pass on...very interesting! –Kim

39 Secrets Your Dog Won't Tell You

We asked animal behaviorists, nutritionists, veterinarians and pet groomers to shed some light on what your furry friends would tell you if they could.

By Michelle Crouch
Reader's Digest Magazine
May 2014

1. You think my tail wagging is always an invitation for you to pet me more. Wrong!
Italian researchers found that dogs wag their tails slightly to the right when they see something they like and to the left when they're confronted with something they want to back away from.

2. You might buy any old dog-grooming brush at the pet store...
...but you should really pick the right one for my coat. A rubber brush will promote circulation and loosen dirt. A bristle brush removes dead hair.

3. You're giving me too much food.
How can you tell? I don't seem motivated by food treats when you're trying to train me. Cut back, and I'll start to pay attention.

4. Grooming day means you bring out the big blow-dryer. Don't!
To make dogs like me look fluffy, shake a little cornstarch into the base of the fur and then brush. It will absorb oil and grease and detangle matted fur.

5. Please don't rush me when I'm going to the bathroom.
There's a reason dogs circle around before getting down to business: We have an instinct to be aligned with the earth's magnetic field before we poop. In fact, researchers watched 70 of us engage in 1,893 defecations over a two-year period just to figure this out.

6. You may think it's nice to let me sleep all day, but too much nap time can affect my personality.
A lot of behavioral problems can be solved by just taking your dog on a daily walk or by playing with your cat for 20 minutes every day.

7. Since I'm an old dog, I get to eat whatever I want, yes? No!
If I have arthritis, I'll be much happier if you give me a daily supplement that contains glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate, which protect joint cartilage. And switch me to a food formulated for an animal my age.

8. If you lose me...
...the first thing you should do is call every animal shelter within 100 miles of home, and visit the nearest shelters every day if you can. Many animal control bureaus euthanize animals if they go unclaimed for a specific amount of time. (For good measure, be sure to get me a microchip when I'm young.)

9. If you're getting me spayed...
...ask your vet if she can remove just my ovaries, not my uterus. A much less invasive procedure, it's the way cats and dogs are spayed in Europe, and many U.S. veterinarians have already made the switch.

10. Because I'm a creature of habit, even a subtle change in my behavior is a red flag that I might be sick.
So if it takes me an hour to eat my food instead of 60 seconds as usual, if I'm tiring out faster when we play, if there are more urine clumps in the litter box than usual, or if I seem to be drinking more water, call the vet right away.

11. There's no question that if you keep me inside and don't let me wander the neighborhood...
I'll have a better chance of living a longer life. I won't get hit by a car, stolen, or just plain lost. But once I've been allowed to roam free, it'll be hard to change me.

12. Please introduce me around when I'm young so I'm not afraid of strangers.
Some experts say I should meet 100 new people of different sizes, genders, and ethnicities in my first 100 days at home, even if it's just a quick greeting. Make sure you include people wearing hats and sunglasses, since those accessories can look awfully scary to me.

13. You may think it's cute when I rub my butt on the carpet...
...but it probably means that I'm itchy and would like to see a vet.

14. When you're choosing a new furry friend, ask a vet or trainer for simple tests you can do to gauge temperament.
For example, you can try rolling me over on my back to see how I handle it. If I really struggle, I'm probably going to be tougher to train than an animal who lies there placidly.

15. Forget the Milk-Bones!
If you want me to really pay attention when you're training me, use a treat that's moist, something so gross, you don't even want to hold it in your hand, like a piece of greasy chicken.

16. While some of us gulp down grass only if we've eaten something that doesn't agree with us and we're trying to regurgitate it...
...others of us just love to munch the lawn. So let me graze – just make sure the grass I'm eating is free of pesticides.

17. Beware, Mom, because I will eat your underwear...
...especially if they've been worn. Veterinarians surgically remove hundreds of pairs from dogs' bellies every year.

18. Please, please can I choose my own bed?
The most comfortable one will depend on how I sleep. Let me try out a few in a pet store. If I usually sleep with my legs sprawled out, I'll be more comfortable on a flat bed without side bumpers. But if I like to curl up, I'll probably love a bumper bed.

19. You say I'm great with kids, but...
...if I'm licking, pulling my ears back, turning my head away, or yawning (all signs of anxiety) while they play with me, I'm probably just barely tolerating them. If you keep letting them pull my tail, one of these days, I might lose it.

20. Hold those clippers!
No matter how high the mercury climbs or how long my hair is, I don't need to be shaved. My undercoat actually insulates me from heat, so it helps me stay cool. Just make sure you keep my coat brushed and mat-free to promote good air circulation.

21. If you leave me in the backyard when you're not home...
...don't fool yourself that I'm going to run around and have fun. The truth is, I'm probably going to sit in one spot and wait for you to return. Dogs are den animals, and many of us prefer to be inside, ideally with you.

22. I love to fetch and would like to learn how to catch a flying disc...
...but those hard plastic FRISBEEs can hurt my teeth and gums. Instead, look for a soft one at a pet store.

23. If I'm not used to strangers and you reach out toward me when you first meet me...
...your hand may as well be a meat cleaver. Instead, crouch down on one leg and look slightly away. Then let me approach you and give you a sniff.

24. Let's get one thing straight: Declawing is not the same as cutting our nails.
It's a hideous, painful surgery that's much more like amputating the last two knuckles of your fingers. If my scratching is really bad, try glue-on nail caps.

25. If I'm spraying "outside the box," I'm not being spiteful.
Something is stressing me out. It may be a new person, a new pet, or even a new piece of furniture in the house that seems to be encroaching on my territory.

26. I'm confused. When I jumped up on you earlier...
...you gave me such a nice pet. But now you're mad at me for jumping on Aunt Martha. Am I allowed to jump up or not?

27. If you let me on the furniture now, while I'm young and cute...
...I will always think it's OK, no matter how big I get.

28. What do you mean you can't teach an old dog new tricks?
My owner taught me to fetch the newspaper from the driveway and take it to him when I was ten.

29. Remember when I was little and you shoved my nose in a puddle of pee I left?
I have no idea why you did that. Instead, get me outside as quickly as possible and praise me whenever I pee outdoors.

30. Want me to learn to walk by your side on a leash?
Well, give me some incentive. As soon as I start to pull ahead, stop walking. When I turn and look back, offer me a treat right next to your leg. I'll quickly figure out I need to stay next to you in order to keep doing what I love most: moving and exploring.

31. If you're tired of finding pet hair on your sofa and want to keep me off...
...try a Scat Mat, which gives out a small, harmless electrostatic pulse when it's stepped on. Or buy a car mat and turn it upside down on your couch, so the little rubber prongs are facing up. I hate those.

32. When I bark, jump, and grab the towel off the countertop...
...I'm not trying to be bad. I'm just bored! I want your attention! Please, get off your smartphone and play with me.

33. If I'm a dog who is scared of thunderstorms or loud noises, get me a snug-fitting Thundershirt.
Or you can make your own. Wrap an Ace bandage across my chest, cross it over the top of my body and then back under, going over and under until it's midway down my back, and then secure it. The constant pressure against the middle of my body will help ease my anxiety and calm me down.

34. Remember, my digestive system is very different from yours.
Raisins and grapes can shut down a dog's kidneys. Other dangerous foods include chocolate, coffee, macadamia nuts and avocado.

35. Want my coat to be thick and shiny?
Make sure my diet has plenty of essential fatty acids. Most high-quality commercial pet foods have enough, but pets on low-quality foods or homemade diets that aren't balanced may develop a dull coat.

36. Every bag of pet food has an Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) statement on the label...
...although you might need a magnifying glass to read it. Look for one that says the food has undergone animal feeding trials rather than one that's been “formulated” by a computer. The trials are expensive, but they indicate that real dogs actually ate the food for six months with good results.

37. Check with a board-certified veterinary nutritionist before giving me a homemade-food diet.
Researchers at the University of California, Davis, who examined 200 recipes last year for home-prepared dog food found that 95 percent had some serious nutritional deficiencies.

38. Did you hear the hype about grain-free cat and dog food?
That's what it is: hype. There's nothing wrong with feeding me grains – they can actually be an important part of a balanced diet. Before you make any change, talk to your vet.

39. If you switch me to a raw diet, I may end up with cracked teeth or a bacterial infection.
Also, exposure to my feces could put anyone with a weakened immune system at risk. That's why the ASPCA, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, and other institutions all strongly discourage raw diets.

Sources: Brian Hare, PhD, codirector of the Canine Cognition Center at Duke University; Rebecca Remillard, PhD, DVM, DACVN, a veterinary nutritionist at North Carolina State University and founder of petdiets.com; Jorge Bendersky, a groomer and pet stylist in New York City; Spencer Williams, owner and president of West Paw Design, a company that makes pet toys and beds; Nancy Kay, DVM, author of Speaking for Spot: Be the Advocate Your Dog Needs to Live a Happy, Healthy, Longer Life; Jennifer Coates, DVM, veterinary adviser to petmd.com; Victoria Schade, dog-training and behavioral expert at pet360.com and author of Bonding with Your Dog: A Trainer's Secrets for Building a Better Relationship; Sophia Yin, DVM, a veterinarian and animal behaviorist and the author of How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves; K. C. Theisen, director of pet-care issues at the Humane Society of the United States; Amy Farcas, DVM, DACVN, a veterinary nutritionist at the University of Pennsylvania; Marilyn Krieger, cat behavioral consultant and author of Naughty No More; Karen “Doc” Halligan, DVM, author of Doc Halligan's What Every Pet Owner Should Know; Jackson Galaxy, cat behaviorist and host of Animal Planet's My Cat from Hell; Stephen Zawistowski, PhD, animal behaviorist and adviser at the ASPCA.

Source: Reader's Digest
©2014 The Reader's Digest Association, Inc.


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Renting with Dogs  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's a great article that may help whenever you're ready to move... –Kim

Renting with Dogs

You've taken the first step – you've decided to begin your journey for your next dream rental. As the famous saying goes, there's no place like home. And, like all responsible pet owners know, your dog's coming with you.

As a new tenant, there's no doubt you'll want to work hard and take the extra necessary measures to please your landlord, especially if he's cautious about having a pet in the mix. While every situation is different, it's best to err on the side of preparation and know what to expect from your landlord before the lease is signed and the deal is sealed.

Here are some questions your landlord may ask you regarding your dog:
  • How long have you had your dog?
  • Do you have written proof of vaccination/good health?
  • Were there any previous complaints about your dog at your previous rental?
  • May I contact your current/past landlords about your dog?
  • Who would look after your dog when you're away?
  • Has your dog been spayed or neutered, and is he/she housetrained?
  • Do you make a point of cleaning up after your dog?
  • How often is your dog alone at home?

Once the question process has been completed to both your satisfaction, your landlord may next develop a pet policy in the form of a written agreement between the two of you.

A basic pet policy may include the following:
  • Screening applications: A few simple questions will help sort out responsible pet owners and tenants.
  • A written agreement: This will ensure everyone has the same information regarding rules and regulations for pet owners.
  • Realistic limits: The pet policy should have clear guidelines on the type and number of pets allowed per dwelling.
  • Specific parameters: It is useful to set specific parameters concerning which common areas pets are and are not allowed to go, when dogs must wear leashes and whether any types of pets must be confined to tenants' apartments.
  • Assurance of cleanliness and healthy pets: Responsible pet owners will agree to immediately clean up after their pets and take all necessary sanitation precautions. They will also have a medical record of their pet to show all required vaccinations have been administered.
  • Written disciplinary procedures: Written procedures which are jointly agreed to and state clearly what actions will result in a warning or some sort of punitive action will reduce disputes and make for better relations between the property management and tenants.
  • Predetermined emergency arrangements: Property management may wish to have on hand details of local vets in case of emergency, especially in a situation where you are not immediately available.
  • Available services: An outline of the locations and availability of parks, pet washing services and other amenities in the local area may be included.
  • An agreement on cleanliness of premises: Tenants should readily agree to undertake to keep the property in excellent condition and free from animal odors and hairs.

Remember, it is more than possible to establish a friendly relationship with your landlord and co-exist in a way that's fair to everyone involved. If you're already a responsible dog owner, you're over the first hurdle!

Source: Pedigree: All Things Dog
©2014 Mars, Inc.


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Is Your Dog Potty Trained Enough?  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here are some good housetraining tips that I thought I would pass on. –Kim

House Training Your Puppy or Adult Dog

House training a puppy or adult dog is such an essential issue for his owner that even a single exclusive tip turns out to be extremely helpful.

The first step in making your dog fit for polite company would be to potty train him. Some see this training as a hassle and some as a challenge.

For me, it is part of bringing up a pet.
 
There are a few things you need to know before you actually start potty training a puppy or adult dog. I enumerate these below:
  • You need to understand your dog's body language. Watch for signs that will indicate to you when your pet wants to eliminate.
  • If you own puppies, remember that they need to go potty at fairly frequent intervals – as soon as they wake up, after short naps, after play-time, after meals, before and after being crated and finally, before retiring for the night.
  • Take your dog for walks at the time that he usually does his potty. Take him out to the yard, and then, to the same place there every time he needs to answer nature's call.
  • Praise your dog after he eliminates at the right place. Some dog owners even give treats to their dogs. But remember to do this every time he does it right. He will relate the rewards to his having "done it right" and zero in on the spot where you want him to defecate regularly.
  • With time, you can try signal training. This is so that you know when your doggie wants to go. You can hang a bell at his level near the door and teach him to push it with his nose or pat it with his paw on his way out.
  • Until your dog has been fully potty trained, keep him under strict vigilance. Do not let him roam around the house freely.
  • Use a crate. A crate-trained dog is usually very happy to get his own den. The advantage of crating is that dogs do not soil the place where they sleep. So, he will naturally not eliminate inside the crate.
  • If you have a small dog and if you live in a high-rise building or in a place that does not have a proper backyard, you can try litter pan training. This means to create a space for your pet to eliminate in your house itself.
  • Use positive reinforcements while housebreaking puppies or adult dogs. Do not scold or hit him, as you will gain nothing by doing that. He will only associate punishment with your return from outside. If you catch him in the act, a stern 'NO' or 'FREEZE' will do (but be consistent). It will startle the dog enough for him to stop pooping.
  • Be prepared to return to a soiled home if you are keeping your dog home alone for more than 4 hours, as separation anxiety is quite common among home-alone dogs.
  • Accidents will happen. It is unusual for a trained adult dog to work against his house training. But medical problems or health disorders may lead to sudden accidents.
  • Many dogs mark their territory. These can be a leg of a table or a particular wall. Intact male and female dogs mark their territories by urinating. Use deodorizers to spray on the places where your dog has marked.
  • If you are patient and are ready to accept that house training a dog takes time, even months sometimes, you will end up having a good house-trained dog.

Now we will move on to how to potty train puppies and adult dogs.
 
Potty Training a Puppy
 
Irrespective of breeds, house training a puppy is considered to be one of the biggest challenges by dog owners. If you think house training your puppy simply involves a steady supply of old newspapers or puppy pads, then think again.
 
A puppy does not develop full control over his bladder until he is over 4 or 5 months old. Since they are growing and developing rapidly at this time, puppies eat more, burn more calories and need to eliminate more frequently than an adult dog.
 
After each nap, meal, drink or playtime, take your puppy to his designated area (indoors or outdoors, wherever you have decided) and stay there until he eliminates. Then bring him to his crate.
 
Repeat this situation everyday until he has developed a habit out of it.
 
Potty Training an Adult Dog

The best way to house train an adult dog is to begin all over again.
 
Observe him very closely. Maybe even maintain a diary of where he goes and when. Whether he is pooping when you are home or only when you are outside; whether you can, time yourself to be home when he feels the need to go outside.
 
You can try dog crates, but be careful to introduce him gradually to them.
 
Remember: Commitment, consistency and intelligent use of positive reinforcement will make you the owner of a perfectly house-trained dog. Don't expect miracles. You will only be disappointed.
 

Get this unique house training guide and start house-breaking your dog today.
 
Copyright © 2009 TrainPetDog.com
 

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Is Your Dog Potty Trained Enough?  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here are some good housetraining tips that I thought I would pass on. –Kim

House Training Your Puppy or Adult Dog

House training a puppy or adult dog is such an essential issue for his owner that even a single exclusive tip turns out to be extremely helpful.

The first step in making your dog fit for polite company would be to potty train him. Some see this training as a hassle and some as a challenge.

For me, it is part of bringing up a pet.
 
There are a few things you need to know before you actually start potty training a puppy or adult dog. I enumerate these below:
  • You need to understand your dog's body language. Watch for signs that will indicate to you when your pet wants to eliminate.
  • If you own puppies, remember that they need to go potty at fairly frequent intervals – as soon as they wake up, after short naps, after play-time, after meals, before and after being crated and finally, before retiring for the night.
  • Take your dog for walks at the time that he usually does his potty. Take him out to the yard, and then, to the same place there every time he needs to answer nature's call.
  • Praise your dog after he eliminates at the right place. Some dog owners even give treats to their dogs. But remember to do this every time he does it right. He will relate the rewards to his having "done it right" and zero in on the spot where you want him to defecate regularly.
  • With time, you can try signal training. This is so that you know when your doggie wants to go. You can hang a bell at his level near the door and teach him to push it with his nose or pat it with his paw on his way out.
  • Until your dog has been fully potty trained, keep him under strict vigilance. Do not let him roam around the house freely.
  • Use a crate. A crate-trained dog is usually very happy to get his own den. The advantage of crating is that dogs do not soil the place where they sleep. So, he will naturally not eliminate inside the crate.
  • If you have a small dog and if you live in a high-rise building or in a place that does not have a proper backyard, you can try litter pan training. This means to create a space for your pet to eliminate in your house itself.
  • Use positive reinforcements while housebreaking puppies or adult dogs. Do not scold or hit him, as you will gain nothing by doing that. He will only associate punishment with your return from outside. If you catch him in the act, a stern 'NO' or 'FREEZE' will do (but be consistent). It will startle the dog enough for him to stop pooping.
  • Be prepared to return to a soiled home if you are keeping your dog home alone for more than 4 hours, as separation anxiety is quite common among home-alone dogs.
  • Accidents will happen. It is unusual for a trained adult dog to work against his house training. But medical problems or health disorders may lead to sudden accidents.
  • Many dogs mark their territory. These can be a leg of a table or a particular wall. Intact male and female dogs mark their territories by urinating. Use deodorizers to spray on the places where your dog has marked.
  • If you are patient and are ready to accept that house training a dog takes time, even months sometimes, you will end up having a good house-trained dog.

Now we will move on to how to potty train puppies and adult dogs.
 
Potty Training a Puppy
 
Irrespective of breeds, house training a puppy is considered to be one of the biggest challenges by dog owners. If you think house training your puppy simply involves a steady supply of old newspapers or puppy pads, then think again.
 
A puppy does not develop full control over his bladder until he is over 4 or 5 months old. Since they are growing and developing rapidly at this time, puppies eat more, burn more calories and need to eliminate more frequently than an adult dog.
 
After each nap, meal, drink or playtime, take your puppy to his designated area (indoors or outdoors, wherever you have decided) and stay there until he eliminates. Then bring him to his crate.
 
Repeat this situation everyday until he has developed a habit out of it.
 
Potty Training an Adult Dog

The best way to house train an adult dog is to begin all over again.
 
Observe him very closely. Maybe even maintain a diary of where he goes and when. Whether he is pooping when you are home or only when you are outside; whether you can, time yourself to be home when he feels the need to go outside.
 
You can try dog crates, but be careful to introduce him gradually to them.
 
Remember: Commitment, consistency and intelligent use of positive reinforcement will make you the owner of a perfectly house-trained dog. Don't expect miracles. You will only be disappointed.
 

Get this unique house training guide and start house-breaking your dog today.
 
Copyright © 2009 TrainPetDog.com
 

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Common Dog Behavior Myths  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's a great article about common myths...hope you find it informative! –Kim

14 Common Dog Behavior Myths Decoded

By Mikkel Becker
March 5, 2012

Although dog training has become more of a science than a craft in recent years, some persistent myths still mislead us when reading canine behavior. Don't let a myth harm your relationship with your pooch. Here, we dispel 14 common myths and look at the facts.

1. An old dog can't learn new tricks.

False. Old dogs not only learn new tricks but they thrive when trained. My late Pomeranian, Mr. Teddy, who was adopted at an estimated 10 to 13 years of age, was a training superstar in Vetstreet videos, which were filmed two weeks before he passed away. By the same token, older dogs without housetraining experience as puppies can successfully be housetrained. As long as a dog is mentally and physically capable of learning to perform a behavior and is properly motivated, it's entirely possible to train her. While intense agility training for Teddy was not realistic, teaching basic commands was.

2. A dog shouldn't sleep with you or be allowed on furniture, or she'll think she's the boss and will misbehave.

False. Just like humans, dogs simply want a comfortable place to lie down. If comfort can be combined with being next to their beloved human, whether it's right next to you on the couch, or even on top of your lap, then they're all for it. In rare cases, dogs will guard their sleeping and resting areas, and will show aggression when humans approach these sacred areas. This type of behavior will require remedial training. But for the average Rover, sleeping in bed or resting on the couch has no adverse behavioral effects.

3. When your dog has a potty accident, it's important to rub her nose in it to let her know what she did.

False. When you rub a dog's nose in her own mess, she often sees no association between that and her having had a potty accident. Nor does rubbing her nose in her accident teach her not to potty on the floor again. Instead, rubbing her nose in her accident teaches her that humans are dangerous and unpredictable, and she will likely begin to hide in safety by sneaking into another room to go to the bathroom, making housebreaking even more difficult.

4. A dog who cowers from people was likely abused in the past.

False. There are various reasons for dogs cowering, and not all of them are because a dog was abused. Commonly, the dog was not properly socialized or had negative experiences during her prime socialization period as a puppy. Genetics also play a role in the fearful dog. Other reasons for a dog to duck away might be that she has learned to dodge people who try to grab her collar, or she is uncomfortable with petting, such as having her ears handled. Unfortunately, well-meaning strangers often approach dogs by bending over the top of their heads and reaching down to pet, which will send timid dogs into a cowering position. A better way to approach is by getting into a kneeling position, with your body turned toward the side, and then inviting the dog to approach you. If you practice this method, it will be less likely to cause a canine to cower.

5. Shelter dogs have too much baggage. It's better to adopt a puppy to start with a clean slate.

False. Many shelter dogs are well-behaved pooches who, for an endless list of possible reasons, could not be kept by their original owners. Older shelter dogs make ideal candidates for people wanting to skip the puppy stages of chewing, potty training and mouthing. The interview process at most shelters also pairs canine candidates with the family setting that will best suit the dog's temperament, which can create cohesion from the beginning.

6. All dogs should enjoy being around other dogs. It's essential for dogs to go on outings with other dogs, such as at the dog park. If a dog doesn't enjoy other dogs, there is something wrong with her.

False. Not all people are social butterflies and neither are all dogs. Some dogs may prefer solitude and only a small, select group of people. Dogs also have their own preferences when it comes to other canines. Breeding can play a big role in their sociability, with terriers being notorious for contentiousness with other pooches. Other times, whether from lack of socialization as a puppy or simply an individual preference, dogs may not enjoy canine comradery. Even though plenty of dogs enjoy the dog park, not all of them enjoy the idea of dozens of other dogs frolicking around them and would instead prefer a quiet walk with their owners.

7. You should let dogs just fight it out when they get into a scuffle.

False (well, at least partly false). It's true that you should never get into the middle of a dog fight, because some of the most damaging dog bites occur when owners try to separate fighting dogs. There are some tactics you can use to break up the scuffle without actually getting in the middle of the fray. Try using water, a really loud noise, or even a distraction like grabbing a treat bag or using voice to direct them to do something else. Owners should do everything they can to prevent another fight in the future. Often dogs don't settle matters on their own, and fighting intensifies over time, especially with dogs in the same home. This calls for advanced training with the help of an animal behaviorist or a certified professional trainer.

8. My dog is trying to show she's in charge when she doesn't listen to me.

False. It's easy to attribute human motives like "getting even" or "being spiteful" to our dogs, but dogs don't have the same complex emotions as humans. The more realistic reasons why a dog doesn't do what's being asked is either because she doesn't understand what she's being asked to do, or the dog doesn't have the proper motivation to want to perform the behavior. For example, most dogs don't come when called because the payoff isn't worth it. When they do, they usually are put on a leash or taken into the house when they'd rather stay outside.

9. My dog knows she was bad after she goes potty in the house. Her guilty face says it all.

False. Dogs show a perceived "guilty face" not because they feel an actual emotion of guilt, but they are actually showing appeasement behaviors in response to their owners intimidating body language. Whether we want to or not, it's difficult not to display negative body language when we're upset with our pets. A 2009 study by researcher Alexandra Horowitz at Barnard College in New York revealed that the "guilty look" dogs display is solely attributed by humans and has no relation to whether the dog is actually responsible for an offense. The study found that dogs who had not actually eaten the forbidden treat, but were scolded by their misinformed owners for eating a treat, showed guiltier-looking body language than dogs who had actually eaten the forbidden treat. The guilty look is simply a response of the dog to her owner's behavior.

10. It's always the owner's fault when a dog misbehaves.

False. Most owners are well-meaning, but are simply misinformed or lack knowledge on how to train their dogs effectively. Blaming the owner for all of a dog's problems makes for good TV, but there are a myriad of reasons why a dog misbehaves, including lack of proper socialization or preventive training, or even the genetic tendencies of the dog. It's important for pet parents to push past feelings of shame or guilt; instead get started in the right direction with help from a pet professional using positive reinforcement methods.

11. Using treats for training is bribery, and the dog won't do the behavior later if you don't give her a treat.

False. It's true that dogs need motivation to perform a behavior. That said, the motivation doesn't always have to be a food-based reward. Dogs can be rewarded in many other ways. Reward them with playing, petting or getting to go outside. They can also be put on a random schedule of rewards with a lottery-ticket-like system so they never know when the payout will come. This system helps keep them motivated. For example: learning to walk on a loose leash may be taught in the beginning by using treats, but once the behavior is learned, treats can be phased out so that the only reward becomes getting to go on the walk itself.

12. When a dog chews up shoes or destroys furniture it's because she's punishing the owner.

False. Dogs chew on shoes, furniture and other human items not to punish their owners, but simply because it feels good on their teeth, it relieves boredom, releases energy and, in some cases, may indicate separation anxiety.

13. A dog can't really be happy unless she can run off-leash.

False. Leashes are made for a dog's safety. They should be perceived as tools that keep your dog from running into oncoming traffic, going up to unknown dogs or people, and prevent them from running way. Although regular off-leash play in a fenced area is essential for a dog's well-being, while out in public, dogs can learn to be perfectly content on a leash at their owner's side.

14. Dogs are great judges of people, so if a dog doesn't like someone, it must mean there is something wrong with that person.

False. In the majority of cases, dogs who react aggressively or fearfully to a person are not doing so out of a negative moral evaluation of the individual, but are responding out of their own self-preservation. With that said, there have been plenty of circumstances where pets have used an apparent sixth sense to pick up on cues that went unseen by their human and actually saved their human's life. However, the majority of dogs I see in my training practice are unfriendly with a person because they are reacting out of fear to a certain physical attribute, movement or the physical proximity of a person, and are not reacting based on any moral evaluation of the individual.

Source: VetStreet
© 2012 Vetstreet


Also, see:

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The Apology Video  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's a great video that I thought I would pass on...it makes sense! –Kim

The Apology Video

Please take a moment and view this video that deals with the reality of pet ownership. In rescue, we urge our adopters to consider all aspects of owning a pet before they decide to make an addition to their life and family.
 

Source: http://www.retrieverrescueofcolorado.com/new/rroc-videos/
 

Also, see:
 

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Is Your Dog Potty Trained Enough?  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here are some good housetraining tips that I thought I would pass on. –Kim

House Training Your Puppy or Adult Dog

House training a puppy or adult dog is such an essential issue for his owner that even a single exclusive tip turns out to be extremely helpful.

The first step in making your dog fit for polite company would be to potty train him. Some see this training as a hassle and some as a challenge.

For me, it is part of bringing up a pet.
 
There are a few things you need to know before you actually start potty training a puppy or adult dog. I enumerate these below:
  • You need to understand your dog's body language. Watch for signs that will indicate to you when your pet wants to eliminate.
  • If you own puppies, remember that they need to go potty at fairly frequent intervals – as soon as they wake up, after short naps, after play-time, after meals, before and after being crated and finally, before retiring for the night.
  • Take your dog for walks at the time that he usually does his potty. Take him out to the yard, and then, to the same place there every time he needs to answer nature's call.
  • Praise your dog after he eliminates at the right place. Some dog owners even give treats to their dogs. But remember to do this every time he does it right. He will relate the rewards to his having "done it right" and zero in on the spot where you want him to defecate regularly.
  • With time, you can try signal training. This is so that you know when your doggie wants to go. You can hang a bell at his level near the door and teach him to push it with his nose or pat it with his paw on his way out.
  • Until your dog has been fully potty trained, keep him under strict vigilance. Do not let him roam around the house freely.
  • Use a crate. A crate-trained dog is usually very happy to get his own den. The advantage of crating is that dogs do not soil the place where they sleep. So, he will naturally not eliminate inside the crate.
  • If you have a small dog and if you live in a high-rise building or in a place that does not have a proper backyard, you can try litter pan training. This means to create a space for your pet to eliminate in your house itself.
  • Use positive reinforcements while housebreaking puppies or adult dogs. Do not scold or hit him, as you will gain nothing by doing that. He will only associate punishment with your return from outside. If you catch him in the act, a stern 'NO' or 'FREEZE' will do (but be consistent). It will startle the dog enough for him to stop pooping.
  • Be prepared to return to a soiled home if you are keeping your dog home alone for more than 4 hours, as separation anxiety is quite common among home-alone dogs.
  • Accidents will happen. It is unusual for a trained adult dog to work against his house training. But medical problems or health disorders may lead to sudden accidents.
  • Many dogs mark their territory. These can be a leg of a table or a particular wall. Intact male and female dogs mark their territories by urinating. Use deodorizers to spray on the places where your dog has marked.
  • If you are patient and are ready to accept that house training a dog takes time, even months sometimes, you will end up having a good house-trained dog.

Now we will move on to how to potty train puppies and adult dogs.
 
Potty Training a Puppy
 
Irrespective of breeds, house training a puppy is considered to be one of the biggest challenges by dog owners. If you think house training your puppy simply involves a steady supply of old newspapers or puppy pads, then think again.
 
A puppy does not develop full control over his bladder until he is over 4 or 5 months old. Since they are growing and developing rapidly at this time, puppies eat more, burn more calories and need to eliminate more frequently than an adult dog.
 
After each nap, meal, drink or playtime, take your puppy to his designated area (indoors or outdoors, wherever you have decided) and stay there until he eliminates. Then bring him to his crate.
 
Repeat this situation everyday until he has developed a habit out of it.
 
Potty Training an Adult Dog

The best way to house train an adult dog is to begin all over again.
 
Observe him very closely. Maybe even maintain a diary of where he goes and when. Whether he is pooping when you are home or only when you are outside; whether you can, time yourself to be home when he feels the need to go outside.
 
You can try dog crates, but be careful to introduce him gradually to them.
 
Remember: Commitment, consistency and intelligent use of positive reinforcement will make you the owner of a perfectly house-trained dog. Don't expect miracles. You will only be disappointed.
 

Get this unique house training guide and start house-breaking your dog today.
 
Copyright © 2009 TrainPetDog.com
 

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Is Your Dog Potty Trained Enough?  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here are some good housetraining tips that I thought I would pass on. –Kim

House Training Your Puppy or Adult Dog

House training a puppy or adult dog is such an essential issue for his owner that even a single exclusive tip turns out to be extremely helpful.

The first step in making your dog fit for polite company would be to potty train him. Some see this training as a hassle and some as a challenge.

For me, it is part of bringing up a pet.
 
There are a few things you need to know before you actually start potty training a puppy or adult dog. I enumerate these below:
  • You need to understand your dog's body language. Watch for signs that will indicate to you when your pet wants to eliminate.
  • If you own puppies, remember that they need to go potty at fairly frequent intervals – as soon as they wake up, after short naps, after play-time, after meals, before and after being crated and finally, before retiring for the night.
  • Take your dog for walks at the time that he usually does his potty. Take him out to the yard, and then, to the same place there every time he needs to answer nature's call.
  • Praise your dog after he eliminates at the right place. Some dog owners even give treats to their dogs. But remember to do this every time he does it right. He will relate the rewards to his having "done it right" and zero in on the spot where you want him to defecate regularly.
  • With time, you can try signal training. This is so that you know when your doggie wants to go. You can hang a bell at his level near the door and teach him to push it with his nose or pat it with his paw on his way out.
  • Until your dog has been fully potty trained, keep him under strict vigilance. Do not let him roam around the house freely.
  • Use a crate. A crate-trained dog is usually very happy to get his own den. The advantage of crating is that dogs do not soil the place where they sleep. So, he will naturally not eliminate inside the crate.
  • If you have a small dog and if you live in a high-rise building or in a place that does not have a proper backyard, you can try litter pan training. This means to create a space for your pet to eliminate in your house itself.
  • Use positive reinforcements while housebreaking puppies or adult dogs. Do not scold or hit him, as you will gain nothing by doing that. He will only associate punishment with your return from outside. If you catch him in the act, a stern 'NO' or 'FREEZE' will do (but be consistent). It will startle the dog enough for him to stop pooping.
  • Be prepared to return to a soiled home if you are keeping your dog home alone for more than 4 hours, as separation anxiety is quite common among home-alone dogs.
  • Accidents will happen. It is unusual for a trained adult dog to work against his house training. But medical problems or health disorders may lead to sudden accidents.
  • Many dogs mark their territory. These can be a leg of a table or a particular wall. Intact male and female dogs mark their territories by urinating. Use deodorizers to spray on the places where your dog has marked.
  • If you are patient and are ready to accept that house training a dog takes time, even months sometimes, you will end up having a good house-trained dog.

Now we will move on to how to potty train puppies and adult dogs.
 
Potty Training a Puppy
 
Irrespective of breeds, house training a puppy is considered to be one of the biggest challenges by dog owners. If you think house training your puppy simply involves a steady supply of old newspapers or puppy pads, then think again.
 
A puppy does not develop full control over his bladder until he is over 4 or 5 months old. Since they are growing and developing rapidly at this time, puppies eat more, burn more calories and need to eliminate more frequently than an adult dog.
 
After each nap, meal, drink or playtime, take your puppy to his designated area (indoors or outdoors, wherever you have decided) and stay there until he eliminates. Then bring him to his crate.
 
Repeat this situation everyday until he has developed a habit out of it.
 
Potty Training an Adult Dog

The best way to house train an adult dog is to begin all over again.
 
Observe him very closely. Maybe even maintain a diary of where he goes and when. Whether he is pooping when you are home or only when you are outside; whether you can, time yourself to be home when he feels the need to go outside.
 
You can try dog crates, but be careful to introduce him gradually to them.
 
Remember: Commitment, consistency and intelligent use of positive reinforcement will make you the owner of a perfectly house-trained dog. Don't expect miracles. You will only be disappointed.
 

Get this unique house training guide and start house-breaking your dog today.
 
Copyright © 2009 TrainPetDog.com
 

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Read more...

Is Your Dog Potty Trained Enough?  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here are some good housetraining tips that I thought I would pass on. –Kim

House Training Your Puppy or Adult Dog

House training a puppy or adult dog is such an essential issue for his owner that even a single exclusive tip turns out to be extremely helpful.

The first step in making your dog fit for polite company would be to potty train him. Some see this training as a hassle and some as a challenge.

For me, it is part of bringing up a pet.

There are a few things you need to know before you actually start potty training a puppy or adult dog. I enumerate these below:

  • You need to understand your dog's body language. Watch for signs that will indicate to you when your pet wants to eliminate.
  • If you own puppies, remember that they need to go potty at fairly frequent intervals - as soon as they wake up, after short naps, after play-time, after meals, before and after being crated and finally, before retiring for the night.
  • Take your dog for walks at the time that he usually does his potty. Take him out to the yard, and then, to the same place there every time he needs to answer nature's call.
  • Praise your dog after he eliminates at the right place. Some dog owners even give treats to their dogs. But remember to do this every time he does it right. He will relate the rewards to his having "done it right" and zero in on the spot where you want him to defecate regularly.
  • With time, you can try signal training. This is so that you know when your doggie wants to go. You can hang a bell at his level near the door and teach him to push it with his nose or pat it with his paw on his way out.
  • Until your dog has been fully potty trained, keep him under strict vigilance. Do not let him roam around the house freely.
  • Use a crate. A crate-trained dog is usually very happy to get his own den. The advantage of crating is that dogs do not soil the place where they sleep. So, he will naturally not eliminate inside the crate.
  • If you have a small dog and if you live in a high-rise building or in a place that does not have a proper backyard, you can try litter pan training. This means to create a space for your pet to eliminate in your house itself.
  • Use positive reinforcements while housebreaking puppies or adult dogs. Do not scold or hit him, as you will gain nothing by doing that. He will only associate punishment with your return from outside. If you catch him in the act, a stern 'NO' or 'FREEZE' will do (but be consistent). It will startle the dog enough for him to stop pooping.
  • Be prepared to return to a soiled home if you are keeping your dog home alone for more than 4 hours, as separation anxiety is quite common among home-alone dogs.
  • Accidents will happen. It is unusual for a trained adult dog to work against his house training. But medical problems or health disorders may lead to sudden accidents.
  • Many dogs mark their territory. These can be a leg of a table or a particular wall. Intact male and female dogs mark their territories by urinating. Use deodorizers to spray on the places where your dog has marked.
  • If you are patient and are ready to accept that house training a dog takes time, even months sometimes, you will end up having a good house-trained dog.

Click here to sign up to receive a FREE course on potty training your dog.

Now we will move on to how to potty train puppies and adult dogs.

Potty Training a Puppy

Irrespective of breeds, house training a puppy is considered to be one of the biggest challenges by dog owners. If you think house training your puppy simply involves a steady supply of old newspapers or puppy pads, then think again.

A puppy does not develop full control over his bladder until he is over 4 or 5 months old. Since they are growing and developing rapidly at this time, puppies eat more, burn more calories and need to eliminate more frequently than an adult dog.

After each nap, meal, drink or playtime, take your puppy to his designated area (indoors or outdoors, wherever you have decided) and stay there until he eliminates. Then bring him to his crate.

Repeat this situation everyday until he has developed a habit out of it.

Potty Training an Adult Dog

The best way to house train an adult dog is to begin all over again.

Observe him very closely. Maybe even maintain a diary of where he goes and when. Whether he is pooping when you are home or only when you are outside; whether you can, time yourself to be home when he feels the need to go outside.

You can try dog crates, but be careful to introduce him gradually to them.

Remember: Commitment, consistency and intelligent use of positive reinforcement will make you the owner of a perfectly house-trained dog. Don't expect miracles. You will only be disappointed.

Click here to sign up to receive a FREE course on potty training your dog.

Get this unique house training guide and start house-breaking your dog today.

Copyright © 2009 TrainPetDog.com

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Read more...

Is Your Dog Potty Trained Enough?  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here are some good housetraining tips that I thought I would pass on. –Kim

House Training Your Puppy or Adult Dog

House training a puppy or adult dog is such an essential issue for his owner that even a single exclusive tip turns out to be extremely helpful.

The first step in making your dog fit for polite company would be to potty train him. Some see this training as a hassle and some as a challenge.

For me, it is part of bringing up a pet.
 
There are a few things you need to know before you actually start potty training a puppy or adult dog. I enumerate these below:
  • You need to understand your dog's body language. Watch for signs that will indicate to you when your pet wants to eliminate.
  • If you own puppies, remember that they need to go potty at fairly frequent intervals – as soon as they wake up, after short naps, after play-time, after meals, before and after being crated and finally, before retiring for the night.
  • Take your dog for walks at the time that he usually does his potty. Take him out to the yard, and then, to the same place there every time he needs to answer nature's call.
  • Praise your dog after he eliminates at the right place. Some dog owners even give treats to their dogs. But remember to do this every time he does it right. He will relate the rewards to his having "done it right" and zero in on the spot where you want him to defecate regularly.
  • With time, you can try signal training. This is so that you know when your doggie wants to go. You can hang a bell at his level near the door and teach him to push it with his nose or pat it with his paw on his way out.
  • Until your dog has been fully potty trained, keep him under strict vigilance. Do not let him roam around the house freely.
  • Use a crate. A crate-trained dog is usually very happy to get his own den. The advantage of crating is that dogs do not soil the place where they sleep. So, he will naturally not eliminate inside the crate.
  • If you have a small dog and if you live in a high-rise building or in a place that does not have a proper backyard, you can try litter pan training. This means to create a space for your pet to eliminate in your house itself.
  • Use positive reinforcements while housebreaking puppies or adult dogs. Do not scold or hit him, as you will gain nothing by doing that. He will only associate punishment with your return from outside. If you catch him in the act, a stern 'NO' or 'FREEZE' will do (but be consistent). It will startle the dog enough for him to stop pooping.
  • Be prepared to return to a soiled home if you are keeping your dog home alone for more than 4 hours, as separation anxiety is quite common among home-alone dogs.
  • Accidents will happen. It is unusual for a trained adult dog to work against his house training. But medical problems or health disorders may lead to sudden accidents.
  • Many dogs mark their territory. These can be a leg of a table or a particular wall. Intact male and female dogs mark their territories by urinating. Use deodorizers to spray on the places where your dog has marked.
  • If you are patient and are ready to accept that house training a dog takes time, even months sometimes, you will end up having a good house-trained dog.

Now we will move on to how to potty train puppies and adult dogs.
 
Potty Training a Puppy
 
Irrespective of breeds, house training a puppy is considered to be one of the biggest challenges by dog owners. If you think house training your puppy simply involves a steady supply of old newspapers or puppy pads, then think again.
 
A puppy does not develop full control over his bladder until he is over 4 or 5 months old. Since they are growing and developing rapidly at this time, puppies eat more, burn more calories and need to eliminate more frequently than an adult dog.
 
After each nap, meal, drink or playtime, take your puppy to his designated area (indoors or outdoors, wherever you have decided) and stay there until he eliminates. Then bring him to his crate.
 
Repeat this situation everyday until he has developed a habit out of it.
 
Potty Training an Adult Dog

The best way to house train an adult dog is to begin all over again.
 
Observe him very closely. Maybe even maintain a diary of where he goes and when. Whether he is pooping when you are home or only when you are outside; whether you can, time yourself to be home when he feels the need to go outside.
 
You can try dog crates, but be careful to introduce him gradually to them.
 
Remember: Commitment, consistency and intelligent use of positive reinforcement will make you the owner of a perfectly house-trained dog. Don't expect miracles. You will only be disappointed.
 

Get this unique house training guide and start house-breaking your dog today.
 
Copyright © 2009 TrainPetDog.com
 

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8 Ways to Train Dogs Who Mark the Christmas Tree  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's a great article that I thought I would pass on...hope you find it helpful! –Kim

What to Do if Your Dog Likes to Pee on the Christmas Tree

Your tree is up. It is an absolutely magnificent tree, covered in ornaments which hold great sentimental value or financial value (like my ridiculously expensive but oh-so-necessary pirate Santa ornament). The house smells like pine...and dog pee?!

It is not uncommon for pet owners to find that male dogs have a tendency to mark the family Christmas tree, particularly when a real tree is brought into the home. The people in the house "get" that it's a Christmas tree. The dog in the house thinks you just got him his own indoor potty for Christmas. This culture clash creates stress for both humans and dogs during the holiday season.

With the exception of working with dogs which are medically incontinent or with those who suffer from severe separation anxiety, the techniques used to address potty training deficiencies are all the same. Dealing with a dog that pees on the Christmas tree requires the exact same type of management, redirection and reinforcement that potty training a new puppy requires. Here is a protocol for managing and training the dog that marks on Christmas trees:

  1. Management and supervision – Your dog should never have unsupervised access to the Christmas tree. If you are unable to supervise him in the presence of the tree, he must be crated or gated elsewhere in the house. Do not hesitate to go back to the potty training basics you learned of crating, gating and tethering when you are not able to train or supervise.
  2. Know the signs – Many dogs offer "pre-indicator behaviors" – behaviors that are offered consistently before the event as a kind of "tell" that the dog needs to eliminate. This can be sniffing around, scratching at the ground, turning in circles or even approaching the tree. If you notice any indicator behaviors from your dog, get him out for a potty break right away!
  3. Reinforce success – While you're working on this, build a strong reinforcement history (with toys, food, and/or life rewards) for appropriate elimination outside.
  4. Click and treat the absence of the behavior. If your dog approaches the tree, sniffs it, and walks away, click and treat him! This is the behavior we want!
  5. Consider keeping your dog on a "traffic lead." A traffic lead is a very short leash, basically just a handle with a clasp. If your dog will not recall reliably under every conceivable circumstance, a traffic lead may not be a bad idea. It will ensure you are able to get your dog out quickly if you DO notice him going toward the tree as if to mark.
  6. Find out your dog's schedule. What times of the day does your dog normally eliminate? Provide plenty of opportunities for outside potty breaks during this time.
  7. Remember what events might trigger a dog's need to relieve himself – In general, dogs tend to eliminate after: naps, playtime, eating and/or drinking.
  8. Consider use of a Belly Band – Belly Bands are snug fitting fabric doggie wraps that are wrapped around a dog's lower torso. They are fitted with absorbent pads so that if your dog does mark, the liquid will be absorbed by the pad and not the beautiful, pristine white beard of your favorite pirate Santa ornament. You can make Belly Bands or purchase them online. A search for "dog Belly Band" should bring up all the information you need. Belly Bands are certainly management tools more than anything, they will not train your dog to avoid peeing on the tree but they will ensure that if management slips up, your tree remains pristine.

Click HERE and HERE for more potty training tips.

Click HERE and HERE for pet urine neutralizer, cat & dog urination deterrents.

Click HERE and HERE for indoor potties for dogs.

Source: http://blogs.dogster.com/dog-training/what-to-do-if-your-dog-is-a-christmas-tree-pee-r/2010/12/
Copyright 2003-2010 Dogster, Inc.

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List of No-kill Shelters and Rescues

List of No-kill Shelters and Rescues: 
NATIONAL SEARCH
Find local shelters near you! LOCAL SEARCH
You can adopt or foster from any of these shelters or donate to support their efforts. Be sure to confirm that they are a "no-kill" shelter. Then, be a part of the solution!

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CLICK HERE FIRST; THEN CLICK THE PAGE LINK BELOW.