Showing posts with label anxiety. Show all posts

39 Secrets Your Dog Won't Tell You  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's a great list that I thought I would pass on...very interesting! –Kim

39 Secrets Your Dog Won't Tell You

We asked animal behaviorists, nutritionists, veterinarians and pet groomers to shed some light on what your furry friends would tell you if they could.

By Michelle Crouch
Reader's Digest Magazine
May 2014

1. You think my tail wagging is always an invitation for you to pet me more. Wrong!
Italian researchers found that dogs wag their tails slightly to the right when they see something they like and to the left when they're confronted with something they want to back away from.

2. You might buy any old dog-grooming brush at the pet store...
...but you should really pick the right one for my coat. A rubber brush will promote circulation and loosen dirt. A bristle brush removes dead hair.

3. You're giving me too much food.
How can you tell? I don't seem motivated by food treats when you're trying to train me. Cut back, and I'll start to pay attention.

4. Grooming day means you bring out the big blow-dryer. Don't!
To make dogs like me look fluffy, shake a little cornstarch into the base of the fur and then brush. It will absorb oil and grease and detangle matted fur.

5. Please don't rush me when I'm going to the bathroom.
There's a reason dogs circle around before getting down to business: We have an instinct to be aligned with the earth's magnetic field before we poop. In fact, researchers watched 70 of us engage in 1,893 defecations over a two-year period just to figure this out.

6. You may think it's nice to let me sleep all day, but too much nap time can affect my personality.
A lot of behavioral problems can be solved by just taking your dog on a daily walk or by playing with your cat for 20 minutes every day.

7. Since I'm an old dog, I get to eat whatever I want, yes? No!
If I have arthritis, I'll be much happier if you give me a daily supplement that contains glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate, which protect joint cartilage. And switch me to a food formulated for an animal my age.

8. If you lose me...
...the first thing you should do is call every animal shelter within 100 miles of home, and visit the nearest shelters every day if you can. Many animal control bureaus euthanize animals if they go unclaimed for a specific amount of time. (For good measure, be sure to get me a microchip when I'm young.)

9. If you're getting me spayed...
...ask your vet if she can remove just my ovaries, not my uterus. A much less invasive procedure, it's the way cats and dogs are spayed in Europe, and many U.S. veterinarians have already made the switch.

10. Because I'm a creature of habit, even a subtle change in my behavior is a red flag that I might be sick.
So if it takes me an hour to eat my food instead of 60 seconds as usual, if I'm tiring out faster when we play, if there are more urine clumps in the litter box than usual, or if I seem to be drinking more water, call the vet right away.

11. There's no question that if you keep me inside and don't let me wander the neighborhood...
I'll have a better chance of living a longer life. I won't get hit by a car, stolen, or just plain lost. But once I've been allowed to roam free, it'll be hard to change me.

12. Please introduce me around when I'm young so I'm not afraid of strangers.
Some experts say I should meet 100 new people of different sizes, genders, and ethnicities in my first 100 days at home, even if it's just a quick greeting. Make sure you include people wearing hats and sunglasses, since those accessories can look awfully scary to me.

13. You may think it's cute when I rub my butt on the carpet...
...but it probably means that I'm itchy and would like to see a vet.

14. When you're choosing a new furry friend, ask a vet or trainer for simple tests you can do to gauge temperament.
For example, you can try rolling me over on my back to see how I handle it. If I really struggle, I'm probably going to be tougher to train than an animal who lies there placidly.

15. Forget the Milk-Bones!
If you want me to really pay attention when you're training me, use a treat that's moist, something so gross, you don't even want to hold it in your hand, like a piece of greasy chicken.

16. While some of us gulp down grass only if we've eaten something that doesn't agree with us and we're trying to regurgitate it...
...others of us just love to munch the lawn. So let me graze – just make sure the grass I'm eating is free of pesticides.

17. Beware, Mom, because I will eat your underwear...
...especially if they've been worn. Veterinarians surgically remove hundreds of pairs from dogs' bellies every year.

18. Please, please can I choose my own bed?
The most comfortable one will depend on how I sleep. Let me try out a few in a pet store. If I usually sleep with my legs sprawled out, I'll be more comfortable on a flat bed without side bumpers. But if I like to curl up, I'll probably love a bumper bed.

19. You say I'm great with kids, but...
...if I'm licking, pulling my ears back, turning my head away, or yawning (all signs of anxiety) while they play with me, I'm probably just barely tolerating them. If you keep letting them pull my tail, one of these days, I might lose it.

20. Hold those clippers!
No matter how high the mercury climbs or how long my hair is, I don't need to be shaved. My undercoat actually insulates me from heat, so it helps me stay cool. Just make sure you keep my coat brushed and mat-free to promote good air circulation.

21. If you leave me in the backyard when you're not home...
...don't fool yourself that I'm going to run around and have fun. The truth is, I'm probably going to sit in one spot and wait for you to return. Dogs are den animals, and many of us prefer to be inside, ideally with you.

22. I love to fetch and would like to learn how to catch a flying disc...
...but those hard plastic FRISBEEs can hurt my teeth and gums. Instead, look for a soft one at a pet store.

23. If I'm not used to strangers and you reach out toward me when you first meet me...
...your hand may as well be a meat cleaver. Instead, crouch down on one leg and look slightly away. Then let me approach you and give you a sniff.

24. Let's get one thing straight: Declawing is not the same as cutting our nails.
It's a hideous, painful surgery that's much more like amputating the last two knuckles of your fingers. If my scratching is really bad, try glue-on nail caps.

25. If I'm spraying "outside the box," I'm not being spiteful.
Something is stressing me out. It may be a new person, a new pet, or even a new piece of furniture in the house that seems to be encroaching on my territory.

26. I'm confused. When I jumped up on you earlier...
...you gave me such a nice pet. But now you're mad at me for jumping on Aunt Martha. Am I allowed to jump up or not?

27. If you let me on the furniture now, while I'm young and cute...
...I will always think it's OK, no matter how big I get.

28. What do you mean you can't teach an old dog new tricks?
My owner taught me to fetch the newspaper from the driveway and take it to him when I was ten.

29. Remember when I was little and you shoved my nose in a puddle of pee I left?
I have no idea why you did that. Instead, get me outside as quickly as possible and praise me whenever I pee outdoors.

30. Want me to learn to walk by your side on a leash?
Well, give me some incentive. As soon as I start to pull ahead, stop walking. When I turn and look back, offer me a treat right next to your leg. I'll quickly figure out I need to stay next to you in order to keep doing what I love most: moving and exploring.

31. If you're tired of finding pet hair on your sofa and want to keep me off...
...try a Scat Mat, which gives out a small, harmless electrostatic pulse when it's stepped on. Or buy a car mat and turn it upside down on your couch, so the little rubber prongs are facing up. I hate those.

32. When I bark, jump, and grab the towel off the countertop...
...I'm not trying to be bad. I'm just bored! I want your attention! Please, get off your smartphone and play with me.

33. If I'm a dog who is scared of thunderstorms or loud noises, get me a snug-fitting Thundershirt.
Or you can make your own. Wrap an Ace bandage across my chest, cross it over the top of my body and then back under, going over and under until it's midway down my back, and then secure it. The constant pressure against the middle of my body will help ease my anxiety and calm me down.

34. Remember, my digestive system is very different from yours.
Raisins and grapes can shut down a dog's kidneys. Other dangerous foods include chocolate, coffee, macadamia nuts and avocado.

35. Want my coat to be thick and shiny?
Make sure my diet has plenty of essential fatty acids. Most high-quality commercial pet foods have enough, but pets on low-quality foods or homemade diets that aren't balanced may develop a dull coat.

36. Every bag of pet food has an Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) statement on the label...
...although you might need a magnifying glass to read it. Look for one that says the food has undergone animal feeding trials rather than one that's been “formulated” by a computer. The trials are expensive, but they indicate that real dogs actually ate the food for six months with good results.

37. Check with a board-certified veterinary nutritionist before giving me a homemade-food diet.
Researchers at the University of California, Davis, who examined 200 recipes last year for home-prepared dog food found that 95 percent had some serious nutritional deficiencies.

38. Did you hear the hype about grain-free cat and dog food?
That's what it is: hype. There's nothing wrong with feeding me grains – they can actually be an important part of a balanced diet. Before you make any change, talk to your vet.

39. If you switch me to a raw diet, I may end up with cracked teeth or a bacterial infection.
Also, exposure to my feces could put anyone with a weakened immune system at risk. That's why the ASPCA, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, and other institutions all strongly discourage raw diets.

Sources: Brian Hare, PhD, codirector of the Canine Cognition Center at Duke University; Rebecca Remillard, PhD, DVM, DACVN, a veterinary nutritionist at North Carolina State University and founder of petdiets.com; Jorge Bendersky, a groomer and pet stylist in New York City; Spencer Williams, owner and president of West Paw Design, a company that makes pet toys and beds; Nancy Kay, DVM, author of Speaking for Spot: Be the Advocate Your Dog Needs to Live a Happy, Healthy, Longer Life; Jennifer Coates, DVM, veterinary adviser to petmd.com; Victoria Schade, dog-training and behavioral expert at pet360.com and author of Bonding with Your Dog: A Trainer's Secrets for Building a Better Relationship; Sophia Yin, DVM, a veterinarian and animal behaviorist and the author of How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves; K. C. Theisen, director of pet-care issues at the Humane Society of the United States; Amy Farcas, DVM, DACVN, a veterinary nutritionist at the University of Pennsylvania; Marilyn Krieger, cat behavioral consultant and author of Naughty No More; Karen “Doc” Halligan, DVM, author of Doc Halligan's What Every Pet Owner Should Know; Jackson Galaxy, cat behaviorist and host of Animal Planet's My Cat from Hell; Stephen Zawistowski, PhD, animal behaviorist and adviser at the ASPCA.

Source: Reader's Digest
©2014 The Reader's Digest Association, Inc.


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Rabies Vaccinosis and Your Pet  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's some vital information that I hope will save a life and reduce suffering! –Kim

Vaccines are Not Harmless Preventive Medicine

By Dr. Karen Becker, DVM
I talk a lot about vaccine dangers, and I often mention a condition called vaccinosis.
Since vaccinosis isn't recognized by most traditional veterinarians and isn't something many pet owners have ever heard of before, I thought it would be helpful to do a short video to explain the condition.
 

Vaccinosis Defined

First, let's talk about what vaccinosis isn't.
It isn't an acute, often immediate adverse reaction to a vaccine. Adverse events, or hypersensitivities, whether mild (such as lethargy, flu-like symptoms, etc.), or severe (such as anaphylactic shock), that are clearly linked to a recent vaccination are widely acknowledged by the traditional veterinary community.
Unfortunately, these reactions are considered by traditional vets to be occasional aberrations that result from a basically safe procedure.
Vaccinosis, on the other hand, is a problem only holistic veterinarians seem willing to acknowledge. It is a reaction of a pet's body to vaccines that have been injected without the pet having experienced a notable adverse event or hypersensitivity. These are chronic reactions to not only the altered virus contained in the vaccine, but also to the chemicals, adjuvants, and other components of tissue culture cell lines – as well as possible genetic changes – that can be induced by vaccines.
Dr. Richard Pitcairn, who holds a PhD in immunology, defines it this way: "Vaccinosis is to be understood as the disturbance of the vital force by vaccination that results in mental, emotional, and a physical change that can, in some cases, be a permanent condition."

Dr. Pitcairn: Vaccines Create Chronic Disease

According to Dr. Pitcairn, vaccines intended to protect pets against acute natural diseases actually create chronic conditions with features of the disease the vaccine was supposed to prevent.
This transformation begins in the laboratory, where natural viruses are modified in order to make vaccines.
Whereas the natural virus would trigger a strong immune system response, the modified lab-created virus in the vaccine doesn't elicit much of a reaction by the animal's immune system. Instead, it creates chronic disease.
The delivery of a vaccine is also very different from how a natural disease develops in an animal's body.
Vaccines contain a number of toxic substances, including viruses, mutated bacteria, immune irritants, foreign proteins, and chemical preservatives. All of these toxins are delivered by injection directly into the blood and lymph, bypassing the usual first line of defenses, including the skin, mucous membranes, saliva, and so forth. So not only is the virus in the vaccine unnatural, the way it enters a pet's body is also very unnatural.
When you look at the situation from this perspective, it's easy to see how abnormal immune reactions are triggered by vaccinations.

Your Pet's Individual Risk of Vaccinosis

The strength and balance of every animal's immune system is different, so there's no way to predict – unless your dog or cat has had a reaction in the past – how much danger your pet is in from exposure to the modified virus contained in any given vaccine or the many toxic ingredients it contains.
That's why I strongly encourage pet owners to avoid all unnecessary vaccines and re-vaccinations [i.e., "booster" shots].

Symptoms of Vaccinosis

COMMON VACCINE REACTIONS INCLUDE:
LethargyStiffness
Hair lossLack of appetite
Hair color change at injection siteConjunctivitis
FeverSneezing
SorenessOral ulcers
MORE SERIOUS REACTIONS:
ImmunosuppressionGranulomas and abscesses
Behavioral changesHives
VitiligoFacial swelling
Weight lossAllergic hypersensitivity
Reduced milk production (females)Respiratory disease
LamenessAllergic uveitis
VERY SERIOUS ILLNESS:
Injection-site sarcomas (cancer)Glomerulonephritis
AnaphylaxisMyocarditis
Autoimmune arthritisEncephalitis or polyneuritis
PolyarthritisSeizures
Hypertrophic osteodystrophyAbortion
Autoimmune hemolytic anemiaCongenital abnormalities
Immune-mediated thrombocytopeniaEmbryotic (fetal) death
ThyroiditisInfertility

Dog and Cat Vaccines: The Importance of Exercising Caution

Since the introduction of dog and cat vaccines, the traditional view of their use has been that they are safe and can be given as frequently as once or twice a year. This approach, tragically, has caused a tremendous amount of suffering for millions of pets.
As the truth about the dangers of vaccines slowly emerges, even traditional veterinary organizations and practitioners are acknowledging that vaccines are not the benign, "better-safe-than-sorry" veterinary tools they were thought to be. 
My recommendations for vaccinating your pet can be found in several videos, articles, and interviews here at MercolaHealthyPets. Most importantly, I don't recommend automatic re-vaccinations at prescribed intervals for any pet. 
If you believe your pet could be suffering from the negative effects of over-vaccination, I strongly recommend you work with a homeopathic or holistic vet to create a tailor-made vaccine detox program to assist your dog's or cat's body in recovering from vaccinosis. 
   
Source: Healthy Pets with Dr. Karen Becker
©1997-2014 Dr. Joseph Mercola

 

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Homeopathy Home Study Course & Kit  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Valuable Resource...
   

18 Remedies that Can Save You Thousands on Vet Bills and Save Your Dog from Toxic and Harmful Medications


You're probably here because you want to help your dog live a long and healthy life. You've come to the right place.

You are about to discover why a simple understanding of homeopathy can give you the ability to respond quickly to many injuries and illnesses and even keep your dog out of the emergency vet clinic.

Dr. Will Falconer is considered one of the top homeopathic vets in North America and his clients pay top dollar just to get a one hour consult. Dogs Naturally has asked Dr. Falconer to summarize much of his work into a easy-to-use course to help dog owners – for a fraction of the cost of a homeopathic vet visit.


Imagine being able to confidently respond to illness or injury, quickly and safely.

It may seem like an impossible challenge to treat your dog at home, but you can do it! I know this because it wasn't long ago that I felt the same way as you.

I was tired of taking my dogs to the vet's office for muscle strains or sudden illnesses like diarrhea and vomiting, and walking out with a huge bill and an expensive bottle of anti-inflammatories or antibiotics that I didn't like giving my dogs. I knew they were harmful to their health and that there had to be a better way; but I just didn't know how to change.

Then one day, my puppy became ill with parvo. He was dying and I was terrified!

The worst part was that I no longer had faith in conventional veterinary care and I didn't know where to turn. Out of desperation, I turned to homeopathy and something amazing happened: within 12 hours of giving my puppy his first remedy, he went from deathly ill to eating and pooping normally. It was that moment that changed everything for me and for my dogs.


I witnessed the amazing results that homeopathy can provide and over the years, I've successfully treated my dogs for muscle strains, sudden fevers, mastitis, hot spots, puncture wounds and more – without the need for a veterinary visit and for just pennies per treatment. And the best part is: I was able to do it all without harmful drugs.

This course and emergency kit was developed so you too can start using the world's fastest growing form of medicine to treat your dog for injury and illness – quickly and safely. And this Home Study Course is taught by the certified homeopathic veterinarian and teacher extraordinaire who treats my own dogs: Dr. Will Falconer.

In his more than 30 years of veterinary practice, Dr. Falconer has been able to prevent over 90% of his patients from ever needing to go to the emergency clinic or take drugs. You can have the same results for less than the cost of one emergency vet visit!

I hope you join us and witness your own miracle in healing.

PS – For a limited time, you'll save 20% off the course, plus you’ll receive over $100 in bonuses.

*** See What's Included:


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Lost Dogs on July 4th  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here are some great tips to better help you and your family pet enjoy the celebration! –Kim

More Pets get Lost on July 4th than Any Other Day!

   
  
Keep your dog safe this Independence Day. Share these eight tips for enjoying the Fourth of July with your dog.
  
Source: Animal Hospital of Martinsville
Copyright © 2014 Animal Hospital of Martinsville


Fireworks are Scary for Your Pets!



Did you know that more pets are lost on the 4th of July than any other day of the year? Please keep your pets from becoming one of the statistics this Independence Day.



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Fear of Thunder & Fireworks  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's a great article about noise sensitivity, especially thunder & fireworks! –Kim

Helping Your Dog's Fear of Thunderstorms [and Fireworks]

by Dogs Naturally Magazine in Holistic Care

Summer weather is here and with it will come thunderstorms [and fireworks]. Thunderstorm phobias can send dogs hiding under their beds or cowering and shaking in fear, much to the concern of their owners. Fortunately, there are some holistic approaches that may help to calm your dog during summer storms.

Fear of thunderstorms and other noise sensitivities are becoming quite prevalent in dogs and the fact that it is so common is not surprising.

Noise sensitivity is quite often a symptom of rabies vaccinosis (see May issue of Dogs Naturally Magazine for how the Rabies vaccine can affect your dog's behavior).

If your dog is noise or thunder phobic, a good start would be to take him to a good homeopathic vet. There are various remedies that can help counter-balance vaccinosis and every vaccinated dog should start here. Even if your dog has not been vaccinated for rabies, he may still carry the baggage of his parents if they were vaccinated. Treating the core of the problem – vaccinosis – is the best place to begin if you want to permanently rid your dog of these fears – or at least limit is stress as much as possible.

There are also some remedies that will help counter his fears during the storm season. As with all homeopathic remedies, once you see improvement in your dog, stop giving the remedy or reduce the frequency of dosing until you can stop completely.
  • Phosphorus 30c – This remedy is good for all noise phobias. It can be given once or twice a day.
  • Borax 6c – This remedy is specific for fears of thunderstorms and can be given twice a day.
  • Aconite 30c – This remedy addresses fear in general and can be given every fifteen minutes during a storm. Continue only until you see improvement. If you do not see improvement, try another remedy.
  • Aurum Metallicaum 30c – may also be given once or twice a day to combat most noise sensitivities.
     
Of course, flower remedies are also an excellent choice for thunder phobias and Rescue Remedy can also be given every 15 minutes until the dog starts to calm.

The above are some suggestions you might try on your dog or discuss with your vet. There is no need for your dog to suffer this summer!

Source: Dogs Naturally Magazine
© 2014 Dogs Naturally Magazine


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Dog Bites by the Numbers  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here are some interesting statistics that I thought I would pass on... –Kim

National Dog Bite Prevention Week

Dog Bites by the Numbers


National Dog Bite Prevention Week
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The Worst Feeling in the World...  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , ,

Here's a great pic that makes a good point... –Kim

No One Wants You


The worst feeling in the world
is believing no one wants you.

Source: Paw Protectors Rescue


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Homeopathy for Dogs  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's a great article that I thought I would pass on...hope you find it interesting! –Kim

12 Homeopathic Remedies for Your Dog

Dr. Deva Khalsa
Homeopathy is fun to use and the fact that it works so very well with so many medical problems makes it all the more rewarding. Most of the commonly used remedies are inexpensive and easy to find. They can be found at most Health Food Markets, some human pharmacies, online at a multitude of sites and even at KMart. I suggest you compile a kit of common remedies to have ready and waiting when minor emergencies occur because there's often not the time to run to the store and this stuff always seem to happen late at night or on a major holiday!

Homeopathy has particular rules associated with using it and this can be confusing and put off prospective students. But for many simple and common accidents and illnesses, it can be pretty simple to use.

The first thing to do is to assemble a homeopathic kit to have at home and then buy a book or two about homeopathy. Homeopathic remedies number in the thousands and are made from anything and everything. But you only need to learn some of the rules of homeopathy and have about a dozen remedies to be off and running.

HOMEOPATHY SIMPLIFIED

Here is the straight goods on how to work with Homeopathic remedies.

Homeopathic remedies need to melt on the gums so they should not be hidden in a treat or in food. Our dogs have a built in pouch on the side of their mouth and the remedies can go right in there.

Try not to handle the remedies but drop them straight from the bottle into your dog's cheek.

Remedies come in tiny white pellet or liquid form. Either form can be placed directly into your dogs cheek. It's not important if you give one drop of the remedy or five or one homeopathic pellet or three because homeopathy is an energy medicine and there is typically none of the physical substance left in the remedy. One tiny white pellet could treat an elephant and 10 pellets could treat a mouse.

That's a hard one to digest, if you'll excuse my pun, but people are always worried about how much to give and how often to give. The amount is no big deal and you give it until they get better. If it's not working at all, you stop giving the remedy. We're all just too used to using antibiotics that have to be calculated to the weight of the dog and have a certain time they need to be given. This is simply not the case with homeopathy.

Because homeopathy is an energy medicine the remedies should not be stored next to heavy electromagnetic appliances such as televisions and computers or left in the bright hot sun for a long time.

WHAT DOSE SHOULD I GIVE ?

Unlike drugs, Homeopathy does not work by body weight (e.g., give 500 mg per 25 lbs. of body weight). With Homeopathy, the original physical substance is sequentially diluted and this is why you have the funny numbers after the name of the remedy. Arnica 6x does not mean that you have to give it six times! It means that the remedy has been diluted six times.

To confound you even more, the more dilute the remedy the more powerful it is, so very highly diluted remedies are usually only available to doctors. The potencies most commonly available to you are 6x and 30x (diluted 1/10 either 6 or 30 times) and 6c and 30c (diluted 1/100 either 6 or 30 times).

WHAT MAKES IT BETTER AND WHAT MAKES IT WORSE

Homeopathic remedies are chosen in accordance with how the patient experiences his illness. For instance, one person who has a cold may want everyone in the house at attendance and worrying about him while another wants to be left alone to lie quietly in the dark. Each of these individuals would need a different remedy based on the individual picture they present.

Let's say your dog has arthritis and stiffness. Look that up in a Homeopathy text book and you'll be given a choice of remedies. The specific way the problem presents in your dog will determine the remedy you choose.

For example, look at arthritic stiffness in dogs. Your choice of remedy might depend on whether your dog is worse or better when he first gets up after resting. If he's better after resting, he might need the remedy Bryonia as noted above. I've found that most dogs are stiff at first but after walking a bit they get less stiff after they move around for a bit. Oftentimes these same dogs are worse in cold damp weather. With this presentation you'd likely choose the remedy Rhus toxidendron. Rhus tox, as it is commonly known, is much cheaper than NSAIDs and also much safer to use.

If you were to determine that Rhus tox was the best remedy for your dog, you would simply put a few pellets to melt in his cheek pouch about three times a day and watch him over the next week, noting changes in his condition. If he gets better, you've got the right remedy and if there is no change, there's no harm done. Go back and do a little more reading in your handy books on homeopathy. When you have the right remedy, and you'll know, because there will be improvement.

12 HANDY REMEDIES

You may want to go out and purchase these commonly used remedies to have on hand in case the need arises. They are small and make a great travel kit too.
  • Apis mellifica – great for bee and other insect bites. Give every 20 minutes for a few doses after a bee sting.
  • Arnica – good for general pain, stiffness due to overexertion, soreness and musculoskeletal injuries.
  • Arsenicum album – great for GI upsets from eating spoiled food where there is both vomiting and diarrhea. Give twice an hour for a few hours.
  • Borax (the remedy, not the powder) – excellent for fear of thunderstorms and fireworks. Give this at the 6c potency twice a day for a month during the season.
  • Calendula (can be used both as an oral remedy and as an external ointment) – use for skin infections or any kind of external infection. It's a remarkable healing agent and a tube of the ointment should always be on hand to apply topically to scrapes, infections and wounds. You can also buy a tincture and dilute it 1/10 and flush any cuts or wounds with it.
  • Hepar sulphur – is wonderful to treat painful abscesses anywhere on the body and painful infected anal glands.
  • Hypericum – is an excellent remedy to give for any pain due to nerve damage or injuries to nerve-rich areas. I once closed my finger in a window and learned firsthand the wonders of Hypericum. Great for when you cut your dog's toenails too short.
  • Myristica – phenomenal remedy for anal sac infections and chronic anal sac problems.
  • Rhus tox – for arthritis that's better after moving around, general musculoskeletal injuries, red swollen eyes, skin infections and skin itching.
  • Ruta – fantastic for any injury to tendons or ligaments and this remedy has a real affinity for the knee so you would use it immediately after any knee or cruciate injury.
  • Silicea – pushes foreign bodies like splinters or foxtails out of the skin.
  • Ledum – the first choice for any type of puncture wound, including those from insect bites. Insect bites that require Apis will be hot and red, whereas bites that require Ledum will be cool and appears bruised.

With a small investment and a little planning, you can build your own Homeopathic kit. These remedies aren't that difficult to use and can give your dog fast and effective relief from many common injuries and illnesses.


About Dr. Deva Khalsa: Since beginning her holistically oriented veterinary practice over 25 years ago, Dr. Khalsa has been incorporating homeopathy, acupuncture, Chinese Herbs, nutritional advice, allergy-elimination techniques such as N.A.E.T and also J.M.T. into her approach. Today her work is a blend of sophisticated holistic techniques and traditional veterinary medicine designed to best enhance the natural strengths and attributes of her patient. Aside from her impressive career and dedication to teaching within the veterinary world, Dr. Khalsa loves sharing her knowledge with the public. She coauthored, Healing Your Horse: Alternative Therapies (Howell Book House, 1993), and most recently authored, Dr. Khalsa’s Natural Dog (Kennel Club Books, 2009), a book best described as a ‘holistic bible’ for dog owners. Dr. Khalsa is a Fellow and Professor of the British Institute of Homeopathy. She has lectured both nationally and internationally.

Source: Dogs Naturally Magazine
© 2014 Dogs Naturally Magazine




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Common Dog Behavior Myths  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's a great article about common myths...hope you find it informative! –Kim

14 Common Dog Behavior Myths Decoded

By Mikkel Becker
March 5, 2012

Although dog training has become more of a science than a craft in recent years, some persistent myths still mislead us when reading canine behavior. Don't let a myth harm your relationship with your pooch. Here, we dispel 14 common myths and look at the facts.

1. An old dog can't learn new tricks.

False. Old dogs not only learn new tricks but they thrive when trained. My late Pomeranian, Mr. Teddy, who was adopted at an estimated 10 to 13 years of age, was a training superstar in Vetstreet videos, which were filmed two weeks before he passed away. By the same token, older dogs without housetraining experience as puppies can successfully be housetrained. As long as a dog is mentally and physically capable of learning to perform a behavior and is properly motivated, it's entirely possible to train her. While intense agility training for Teddy was not realistic, teaching basic commands was.

2. A dog shouldn't sleep with you or be allowed on furniture, or she'll think she's the boss and will misbehave.

False. Just like humans, dogs simply want a comfortable place to lie down. If comfort can be combined with being next to their beloved human, whether it's right next to you on the couch, or even on top of your lap, then they're all for it. In rare cases, dogs will guard their sleeping and resting areas, and will show aggression when humans approach these sacred areas. This type of behavior will require remedial training. But for the average Rover, sleeping in bed or resting on the couch has no adverse behavioral effects.

3. When your dog has a potty accident, it's important to rub her nose in it to let her know what she did.

False. When you rub a dog's nose in her own mess, she often sees no association between that and her having had a potty accident. Nor does rubbing her nose in her accident teach her not to potty on the floor again. Instead, rubbing her nose in her accident teaches her that humans are dangerous and unpredictable, and she will likely begin to hide in safety by sneaking into another room to go to the bathroom, making housebreaking even more difficult.

4. A dog who cowers from people was likely abused in the past.

False. There are various reasons for dogs cowering, and not all of them are because a dog was abused. Commonly, the dog was not properly socialized or had negative experiences during her prime socialization period as a puppy. Genetics also play a role in the fearful dog. Other reasons for a dog to duck away might be that she has learned to dodge people who try to grab her collar, or she is uncomfortable with petting, such as having her ears handled. Unfortunately, well-meaning strangers often approach dogs by bending over the top of their heads and reaching down to pet, which will send timid dogs into a cowering position. A better way to approach is by getting into a kneeling position, with your body turned toward the side, and then inviting the dog to approach you. If you practice this method, it will be less likely to cause a canine to cower.

5. Shelter dogs have too much baggage. It's better to adopt a puppy to start with a clean slate.

False. Many shelter dogs are well-behaved pooches who, for an endless list of possible reasons, could not be kept by their original owners. Older shelter dogs make ideal candidates for people wanting to skip the puppy stages of chewing, potty training and mouthing. The interview process at most shelters also pairs canine candidates with the family setting that will best suit the dog's temperament, which can create cohesion from the beginning.

6. All dogs should enjoy being around other dogs. It's essential for dogs to go on outings with other dogs, such as at the dog park. If a dog doesn't enjoy other dogs, there is something wrong with her.

False. Not all people are social butterflies and neither are all dogs. Some dogs may prefer solitude and only a small, select group of people. Dogs also have their own preferences when it comes to other canines. Breeding can play a big role in their sociability, with terriers being notorious for contentiousness with other pooches. Other times, whether from lack of socialization as a puppy or simply an individual preference, dogs may not enjoy canine comradery. Even though plenty of dogs enjoy the dog park, not all of them enjoy the idea of dozens of other dogs frolicking around them and would instead prefer a quiet walk with their owners.

7. You should let dogs just fight it out when they get into a scuffle.

False (well, at least partly false). It's true that you should never get into the middle of a dog fight, because some of the most damaging dog bites occur when owners try to separate fighting dogs. There are some tactics you can use to break up the scuffle without actually getting in the middle of the fray. Try using water, a really loud noise, or even a distraction like grabbing a treat bag or using voice to direct them to do something else. Owners should do everything they can to prevent another fight in the future. Often dogs don't settle matters on their own, and fighting intensifies over time, especially with dogs in the same home. This calls for advanced training with the help of an animal behaviorist or a certified professional trainer.

8. My dog is trying to show she's in charge when she doesn't listen to me.

False. It's easy to attribute human motives like "getting even" or "being spiteful" to our dogs, but dogs don't have the same complex emotions as humans. The more realistic reasons why a dog doesn't do what's being asked is either because she doesn't understand what she's being asked to do, or the dog doesn't have the proper motivation to want to perform the behavior. For example, most dogs don't come when called because the payoff isn't worth it. When they do, they usually are put on a leash or taken into the house when they'd rather stay outside.

9. My dog knows she was bad after she goes potty in the house. Her guilty face says it all.

False. Dogs show a perceived "guilty face" not because they feel an actual emotion of guilt, but they are actually showing appeasement behaviors in response to their owners intimidating body language. Whether we want to or not, it's difficult not to display negative body language when we're upset with our pets. A 2009 study by researcher Alexandra Horowitz at Barnard College in New York revealed that the "guilty look" dogs display is solely attributed by humans and has no relation to whether the dog is actually responsible for an offense. The study found that dogs who had not actually eaten the forbidden treat, but were scolded by their misinformed owners for eating a treat, showed guiltier-looking body language than dogs who had actually eaten the forbidden treat. The guilty look is simply a response of the dog to her owner's behavior.

10. It's always the owner's fault when a dog misbehaves.

False. Most owners are well-meaning, but are simply misinformed or lack knowledge on how to train their dogs effectively. Blaming the owner for all of a dog's problems makes for good TV, but there are a myriad of reasons why a dog misbehaves, including lack of proper socialization or preventive training, or even the genetic tendencies of the dog. It's important for pet parents to push past feelings of shame or guilt; instead get started in the right direction with help from a pet professional using positive reinforcement methods.

11. Using treats for training is bribery, and the dog won't do the behavior later if you don't give her a treat.

False. It's true that dogs need motivation to perform a behavior. That said, the motivation doesn't always have to be a food-based reward. Dogs can be rewarded in many other ways. Reward them with playing, petting or getting to go outside. They can also be put on a random schedule of rewards with a lottery-ticket-like system so they never know when the payout will come. This system helps keep them motivated. For example: learning to walk on a loose leash may be taught in the beginning by using treats, but once the behavior is learned, treats can be phased out so that the only reward becomes getting to go on the walk itself.

12. When a dog chews up shoes or destroys furniture it's because she's punishing the owner.

False. Dogs chew on shoes, furniture and other human items not to punish their owners, but simply because it feels good on their teeth, it relieves boredom, releases energy and, in some cases, may indicate separation anxiety.

13. A dog can't really be happy unless she can run off-leash.

False. Leashes are made for a dog's safety. They should be perceived as tools that keep your dog from running into oncoming traffic, going up to unknown dogs or people, and prevent them from running way. Although regular off-leash play in a fenced area is essential for a dog's well-being, while out in public, dogs can learn to be perfectly content on a leash at their owner's side.

14. Dogs are great judges of people, so if a dog doesn't like someone, it must mean there is something wrong with that person.

False. In the majority of cases, dogs who react aggressively or fearfully to a person are not doing so out of a negative moral evaluation of the individual, but are responding out of their own self-preservation. With that said, there have been plenty of circumstances where pets have used an apparent sixth sense to pick up on cues that went unseen by their human and actually saved their human's life. However, the majority of dogs I see in my training practice are unfriendly with a person because they are reacting out of fear to a certain physical attribute, movement or the physical proximity of a person, and are not reacting based on any moral evaluation of the individual.

Source: VetStreet
© 2012 Vetstreet


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The Apology Video  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's a great video that I thought I would pass on...it makes sense! –Kim

The Apology Video

Please take a moment and view this video that deals with the reality of pet ownership. In rescue, we urge our adopters to consider all aspects of owning a pet before they decide to make an addition to their life and family.
 

Source: http://www.retrieverrescueofcolorado.com/new/rroc-videos/
 

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Dog Etiquette Rules  

Posted by — Kim in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Here's some great advice that I thought I would pass on...hope you find it interesting! –Kim

Space Etiquette for Dogs


NEWSFLASH! Running up to another dog and ignoring requests to go away is not "friendly," it is rude. Just like people, DOGS NEED PERSONAL SPACE. If a stranger came up and put his hand on your body, you'd be allowed to step back, yell and push him away. Dogs have the same right to enforce their boundaries. Some dogs are called "reactive" because they are more sensitive than others. Reactive dogs are good dogs, they just need more distance and compassionate training. You can help them by honoring their need for personal space.
  1. Never let your off-leash dog go up to an on-leash dog.
  2. Lock retractable leashes when you see other dogs.
  3. Ask before approaching or petting any dog.
  4. Have compassion for people with shy or reactive dogs.
Please do not chase us. Let us pass without interaction, and keep your judgments to yourself.

Source: http://doggiedrawings.net/post/842176625
© 2011 Lili Chin



7 Dog Etiquette Rules

By Janine Allen
May 24th, 2009

Wouldn't it be great if everyone else loved our dogs as much as we do? Increase the chances of this happening by following the etiquette rules listed below.
  1. No matter how well trained your dog is, put him on a leash when near strangers. People will appreciate your respect for their safety and well-being.
  2. Avoid approaching people or dogs directly when in public. Move off to the left or right to pass by; step off the curb if necessary. Fearful dogs and fearful people will be thankful.
  3. Always, when there is a leash in hand, put a poop bag in your pocket. Carry three: one for you, a spare and one to share.
  4. Leave your female dog at home when she is in season. Her pheromones will bring out the worst in otherwise well-behaved dogs.
  5. Ask, and be specific, before letting your dog approach people or other dogs. "Is he friendly?" gives no warning to other dog owners that you are going to let your dog lunge forward.
  6. When you have been invited to a home, event or activity, ask before bringing your dog.
  7. Until your dog is trained not to jump on people, put him away when guests arrive. Let him out after guests have settled in. Leash or tether him if he tends to nose, poke or paw people for attention.
Your dog would want others to think as highly of him as you do. Don't disappoint him.


Janine Allen (CPDT) is Rescue Me Dog's professional dog trainer. Janine's passion is working with people and their dogs. She provides demonstrations for those who have adopted shelter dogs, lends email support to adopted dog owners that need information beyond our Training Support Pages, and aids shelter staff and volunteers in understanding dog behavior to increase their adoptability.

Source: http://rescuemedog.org/dog-blog/7-dog-etiquette-rules/
Copyright 2013 Rescue Me Dog


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    List of No-kill Shelters and Rescues

    List of No-kill Shelters and Rescues: 
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    Find local shelters near you! LOCAL SEARCH
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